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Victor Barragán transformed AIFA airport into a sort of cultural purgatory. Obviously, the collection's moniker, "Quiet Luxury!", was a cheeky pass at the resurgent fashion movement centered on 'anti-bling', but Barragán's designs, in all their ostentatious glory, were anything but quiet. Models slinked down a motionless travelator, clad in looks that seemed like a jumble of conflicting references. Bullet wounds, bloody slashes, flashy camo-wear, national flag-pastiches, guerrilla-esque patrol hats, among other symbolic artifacts resonated loudly. Paradoxically, the collection felt timeless, fixed in a liminal space neither here or there. The eclectic references jumbled together naturally blended into what we’ve come to understand as the soul of BARRAGÁN.
Photographer Jester Bulnes, who walked the show, filled us in from their POV.
Read their diary below.
Last year I attended my first New York Fashion Week purely for the sake of the FOMO I would feel. This year amidst Paris Fashion week I was invited to not only attend, but walk my first runway for Barragán SS24, a designer I have not only admired for years, but have fantasized about working with, in Mexico City.
Sept 26
Immediately off the plane to my fitting, it was the day before the show. Right as I walked in, I was greeted by friends calming my nerves and to my surprise I saw Jordan Firstman, another familiar face, receiving a haircut and having his beard trimmed into the most swaggy striped pattern. Without having even seen any of the clothes, I knew that that show was going to be everything.
Sept 27
9:21 AM
Day of the show. I have been dreaming of this day my entire life. I met up with my friends Sevyn and Julian for coffee as we all head together to the bus that would be taking all of the models to the runway location: AIFA Airport.
Nothing but tattoos, muscles, and sweet personalities fill the long ride as everyone who would be a part of the show is more than the typical model and rather embodies the ethos of the brand.
12:30 AM
We arrived. Cracking jokes and in awe at the ability to present such a collection in the middle of an airport, we all make it through security.
1:06 PM
Models begin receiving bullets to their foreheads, extra hairy sideburns, and scars on their bodies.
3:34 PM
It's finally time to practice the initial walkthrough. Strutting down a moving walkway and weaving through airport chairs, the walk feels a bit confusing. After a few tries and a dose of confidence, I had it down.
5:01PM
Collectively deciding to get dressed as hair and makeup had just finished up, we bantered that we would need a full hour of having our photos taken as the show was set to begin at 6PM.
5:55 PM
Chains. Crowns. Crucifix rosaries. It all blurs by as everyone backstage is working hard to have everything ready for the show.
6:12 PM
The show had already begun and it was about to be my turn to walk. I taked a deeo breath and think about the young kid taking selfportraits in the infamous gay Barragán speedo. I was ready.
6:27 PM
It's time for the final walk and blasting through the speakers is Slowdive’s “Souvlaki Space Station.” This moment could not feel anymore magical. I will never forget this moment.
Gracias Victor, a todos.
BARRAGÁN Worldwide, BARRAGÁN Forever. <3
Designers Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, who grew up clad in PUMA attire, view this as a journey back to their roots. PUMA was their unofficial uniform; they fondly recall combining the glossy patent crossbody bag with tracksuits and the colorful Mostro shoes. This sporty-girl allure has been resurrected, finding new life in this synergistic pairing. Gadient and Bösch share their mutual excitement for this project, noting, "It's incredible to explore each other's realms — PUMA boasts a remarkable history, constantly pushing boundaries, innovating in style and technique. Blending lifestyle with high-performance sport is exhilarating for us, aiming for excellence in both realms.”
It’s a no-brainer. The collection embodies a sense of liberation, an energy perfected captured in the campaign by Daniel Sannwald featuring Eartheater; the shoes and bags epitomize a feminine strength — protective, fierce, and intricate. They exude an athleticism and ecstatic energy that seamlessly intertwines the alien and human, catering to those always on the move, prepared for any adventure life throws their way. After all, doesn’t a night at Berghain or a Sunday morning workout class have, more or less, the same effect?
Shop the collab, now available at Ottolinger.com