Into the Light w/ Rick Owens SS24

October 03, 2023

The soft pink haze drifted through the air, accompanying the soothing vocals of the designer's homemade remix of Diana Ross' "I Still Believe in Love", which landed as gracefully. But even without the ambiance, Rick Owens’ message for this season stood resoundingly clear. He still believes.

As the opening model navigated the precarious marble staircase of the Palais de Tokyo, her towering heels led to a momentary slip, a subtle hiccup in her otherwise poised walk. It didn’t seem intentional, but I myself like the idea of that being the case. In the grand scheme of Earth's existence, it feels as though we too are momentarily slipping, much like that model. However, in the blink of an eye, we may find our footing once more, just like she. Our journey, like the intricate cuts, drapes, and textures of this collection, might continue along a renewed path.

Text by Vilda Krog
Photos by Tyler Matthew Oyer

Owens was up to his usual antics, yet the message resonated differently, casting a fresh light upon his familiar courtyard. It almost felt like new territory. The blacks were deeper but not necessarily darker. The form-fitting fabrics were comfortably embracing, without constraining. High waists encouraged models to stand tall with confidence.

Nevertheless, a somber undertone still permeated Owens' silhouettes. The exaggerated arches of shoulders appeared even more severe, distorting the natural contours of the body. Collars extended far beyond the heads, serving as armor on a metaphorical battlefield. Some models had their heads sheltered under delicate layers of mesh, observing while remaining protected. Following the ensembles came last season's duvets, transformed and lined with strips of denim and mesh, followed by translucent trails that billowed like ethereal flowers in the wind. Owens' creations conquered not only the marble stairs but also mirrored the prevailing atmosphere of our contemporary world.

The Lord of Darkness has ventured into the light, embracing luminosity and embodying its spirit. As this chapter came to a close in the color of love, a hue also reminiscent of blood and pain, it whispered that pleasure could not exist without its counterpart. Owens voiced this promise in the most profound way.

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For years, she stood still, watching life rush past her, a quiet observer behind the glass. Now, the glass is broken, and she steps out into the unknown. She walks through the city, caught between two worlds—part of it, yet apart from it.

Her journey is quiet but bold, searching for something she’s never understood, something just out of reach. On church steps and under glowing city lights, she questions everything: the rules, the past, and where she truly belongs. Each step feels both freeing and uncertain.

A curious soul in a borrowed life, she keeps moving forward, leaving behind only whispers of her escape, like a fleeting shadow in the night.