Check out the Fairfax OG’s lookbook below.
Stay informed on our latest news!
Stay informed on our latest news!
After the show, I went backstage with office to speak with Alejandro Gómez Palomo about his spectacular return to NYFW.
Welcome back to New York! How does it feel to be back for fashion week?
Alejandro Gómez Palomo— It is amazing. I feel like I delivered what I've been wanting to deliver in New York for a while, and it feels really really nice. I love coming to New York in September when it's still beautiful and sunny. I love the energy of the city, and the inspiring people that I see around.
What were you the most excited for people to see in this show?
Just a real strong Palomo collection, a glamorous grand collection. I've never shown in New York in a space like this. I could never really deliver a collection how I would do it in Paris or Madrid or something — in a grand space, with this kind of historical reference to Spanish culture, full of sexuality and all that. What we did in the collection that we presented today is really what I wanted people in New York to see from me.
It was a beautiful show. You mentioned that tone of sensuality, and of course, the title was “Cruising in the Rose Garden.” Where did that theme come from, and what does it mean to you?
It really came from the idea of both of our sides, the more romantic, soft and feminine side, and then the really straightforward sexual, dark, animalistic, maybe cruisey part that pretty much all of us have inside as well.
I was trying to create a universe that was the crux of both: the darkness that we almost want to hide from, but in a beautiful place, creating this kind of magical scene where sexuality and beauty and romance could live together.
I noticed that it came out even in the models’ walks, and the way that they looked into the audience. My favorite, there was one that lifted up their shirt and made eye contact.
Yeah, definitely, definitely. They were cruising at the Plaza!
I love it. How did you decide to do this as a collaboration with Bimba y Lola?
Well, this is a conversation that we've had for a while, and it's been a beautiful magical journey because it's really allowed me to explore a lot of things that I'm not normally able to explore at Palomo, which is a smaller independent brand.
I had the chance to really do whatever I wanted, like big jewelry, beautiful necklaces, things that cost a lot of investment for a brand like mine to do. I have my resources and they’re great, but with this I could really expand and be free to create.
The jewelry was stunning, like wearable art. If you had to pick, what was your favorite look or element from the show?
I had this moment yesterday — let me show you on my phone — where I was like, this is it, I'm already happy even if tomorrow doesn’t go well. We had this moment at the fitting yesterday… [A model] came in and put on this look and the energy in the room kind of changed. We all stopped and cried, and we lived this magical, beautiful moment. So that for me was my favorite this season.
That’s so special, thank you for sharing it. My last question: how do you feel that Palomo has grown as a brand since you started?
It's grown and it keeps growing but I think it keeps being really true to itself, to myself. There's coats and other things that I've been doing since the beginning of my career, since my first collection. I even look at some looks of this season, and I'm like, this is pretty similar to what I did for my graduate collection.
It’s real, it is me, it’s my life, and this is what I do. So, of course, I keep growing and I have more experience and more techniques and we explore different places, but the way I make fashion, it really always is the same.
There are certain fashion standards we pick up as we mature, straying far from the naive wonder we maintain as children. Think “no white after Labor Day” or “avoid print-matching to avoid excess.” But in Prisca’s world, she makes the rules. Presented through an array of skintight mini dresses, metallic mini skirt sets, slip dresses, and velour galore, Prisca brings us into that world.
office spoke with the designer post-show about her affinity for rule-breaking, her favorite looks, and more.
What is the inspiration behind this collection?
Every season we really care about the models and the customers feeling really empowered and good about themselves — and sexy really. At the beginning of this design process, we thought about last season and how we could bring this empowered person into the summer. The beginning of this inspiration started from looking at a lot of photo albums and childhood souvenirs. Also, a lot of stories from friends and family of their first fashion memories when they were five or six. You know, exploring these clothes that you have when you're very little and how they kind of stay with you. Wearing orange with pink — bright colors with energy. I think it's about when you are a kid and you are exploring yourself and who you want to be — finding your style. There is something really interesting about bringing those challenges and rebellious decisions into adulthood, breaking the codes basically. A lot of times we're told, 'You can't wear this in the office,' or 'That's not age-appropriate.' So this collection is about identifying your own standards that you want to kind break free from. It's very personal.
I was going to ask, since you talked about the photos and speaking to close friends and family. So you would say this is a more personal collection compared to those of the past?
Definitely. I think the process coming from this idea of breaking codes means a lot to me. It was even about when we were picking colors — instead of going for a safer option, we said, 'Let's put all of these colors together. Let's go for it.' And then we just figured out things along the way. Which is often how you feel about life. You just totally do it and then figure out the rest later. We have to 'make things work' all the time.
You’ve mentioned before that you embrace the absurd in your creative process. How does this collection convey that?
Well, I think absurdity is just part of contemporary life, really. Today is just an absurd time. And I think that, if anything, this season was about celebration. And it touches everybody, even the people who don't necessarily want to attach meaning to it. This season was more about breaking free, it was about adventure and freedom, and breaking free from even labeling things as absurd, if that makes any sense.
What is your favorite look from this collection and why?
I'd wear every look. I like the purple looks a lot. I like things that you can mix and match. I love a lot of the denim, which can be played into day and night. I loved the mesh snake as well.
BTS photos by Elisabeth Wirjia
Exploring the ornate, the hyperfeminine, and motifs or vibrant patterns that are considered to be “oriental,” and owning them in her own personal way, Shui presents a jewel-toned color-explosion of a collection, wrapped up in taffeta, silk ribbons, and lace. The collection, which features a range of sultry corset and bloomer sets, elegant slips, and seductive sequined minis, also includes the use of a heritage textile called Mud Silk, a 100% biodegradable textile with a 2,500-year tradition in Southeast China derived from the Ming dynasty. The resource is dyed using natural dye from the anti-microbial Chinese Yam, bringing the collection full circle and honoring the upbringing that has shaped Shui into the powerful woman and artist she is today.
office spoke to Shui post-show to discuss this newfound power she has settled into, the Roman mythology and heritage cultural traditions that inspired key elements, and her affinity for never taking the runway too seriously.
What is the inspiration behind this collection?
I was inspired by two artists I really love — Hannah Lim and Faye Wei Wei. Hannah explores a lot of the same themes I do — taking elements like chinoiserie and turning the viewpoint on them, flipping the idea that the ornamental (which is associated with femininity and the oriental) and thought of as negative instead into sources of joy. Also if you look at the fabrics — they’re Chinese embroidered silks, there’s also a heritage fabric called Mud Silk in the collection, and it’s mixed with figure hugging silhouettes and shaped waist power suits. Lace, sequins, tulle, explosive colors — I wanted to highlight these for the collection.
Which look was your favorite to work on?
Look 1 was crazy to work on because when I had originally draped it the shape it was perfect and organic and felt just right — I hadn’t fully finished it yet though so there were just pins and we tried the unfinished version on the models to fit but then the drape moved and I couldn’t get the same shape again. So I spent another good 5 hours the night before the show getting the original look back and making sure it was properly finished. I refused to stop working on it until I got it right.
How have you learned to weaponize the idea of “otherness” through your craft?
I think it’s to emphasize those themes even more in my collections and turn them into items of celebration.