View Dion Lee’s full Fall/Winter 2022 collection here.
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Stay informed on our latest news!
View Dion Lee’s full Fall/Winter 2022 collection here.
Explore images from the Valentine's Day fête below.
With “Headless,” Oliver asked his audience to trust the process and let go of themselves into the vibe. It may not be the ideal scenario for some in the fashion scene, but it is exactly what New York has been missing lately: lawlessness. Leave it to Shayne Oliver to claim his throne as New York Fashion Week’s god of chaos.
The looks consisted of motifs familiar from Hood by Air runways such as overly accentuated, boxy shoulders, and fantastically proportioned and intentionally deformed footwear. Pieces such as Swarovski-bedazzled Telfar bags beg the question of upcoming collaborations yet to be answered. The show was rounded out by a finale featuring Eartheater. The singer, adorned in a custom Shayne Oliver gown, gave the audience one last surprise with a performance before the festivities concluded. What’s next for Oliver’s new label is wholly unclear at this point, but it seems that’s just how he wants it.
Explore images from "Headless" below.
In discussing where the focal start-point for the collection was, Qu shares that they were initially inspired after watching the documentary Fantastic Fungi, which spurred them to purchase a book on fungi and take a deep dive into understanding the world of mushrooms. Through this exploration, Qu discovered that "mushrooms rely on a system of supporting and being supported by everything around them…they feed us when we're living then break us down when we die and then turn us into nutrients for the soil and plants." Qu wants us to take a hint from mushrooms when we think about survival and appreciate that it's not always about competition. Sometimes the most effective survivalists, like fungi, are the ones that collaborate with their surroundings sustainably.
It's fascinating how the reverence Qu holds for fungi translated into the designs this season. Fuzzy fabrics over harsher materials like nylon and canvas demonstrate the literal nature of fungi's interaction with organic environments. Speaking of standout pieces, Qu explains that "compared to past seasons, this season explores many different colors and fuzzy textures. We have bright purple sweaters with black patterning and knits made with the fuzziest yarn…we took a New York staple, the classic nylon bomber, and we made the sleeves into what feels like a soft harness. All the different textures this season are inspired by the idea of the mushroom and how it can inspire a different future for city life." While certainly unexpected, Qu's case for the mushroom is beyond compelling, opening the door for a myriad of new ways designers can think about natural interactions moving forward in the fashion world.
Watch Private Policy’s full Fall/Winter 2022 show here.