Alexander McQueen SS25

September 30, 2024

The Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2025 show, held in Paris, was a powerful blend of sharp tailoring, ethereal fabrics, and folklore. Under the creative direction of Seán McGirr, the collection took inspiration from the banshee—a haunting figure in Irish mythology—and transformed it into a symbol of feminine strength and resilience.

Twisted British suiting formed the backbone of the collection, with wool mohair and gabardine tailored into angular silhouettes. Ethereal silk chiffon and intricate cobweb lace contrasted the sharpness, giving the collection a haunting, ghost-like quality. The color palette was predominantly ivory, grey, and black, with fiery accents of yellow and orange.

The show space, designed by Tom Scutt, echoed the collection’s themes of tension and duality, blending classicism with modernity. Accessories, from sculptural boots to jewelry inspired by the banshee’s lore, reinforced the mythical narrative.

By Enzo Holdt
Images Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

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June 12, 2024

At London Fashion Week earlier this week, creative director Laura Andraschko unveiled her latest collection, an overtly political presentation, featuring on-the-nose critiques of the UK upper class’ culture and attitudes.

Andraschko, whose work is typically hedonistic in nature, has taken a left turn for the SS25 collection. The excess and ignorance of the often conservative upper class woman is mocked mercilessly. Faux country club pieces are embroidered with phrases like “Entitled Cunt”, offering unabashed, humorous criticism of elites in line with the trend found in recent films The Menu and Triangle of Sadness.

To frame her theatrical show of ridicule, Andraschko chose horse stables in West London as her location, a perfect encapsulation of the bullshit behind the shiny artifice of the lifestyle Britain's elites have chosen for themselves. The designer isn’t portraying herself as a hater through-and-through, though, as elements of the collection display a deep seeded love for aspects of British culture and fashion. Equestrian wear is included, along with pieces invoking UK country club’s and upper class business wear.

Some pieces evoke the well-known Bullingdon Club, which counts Prime Ministers such as notorious right-wing buffoon Boris Johnson and conservative clown David Cameron as it’s former members. Although the collection s a scathing critique of the rich, it’s also tinged with hope, paving an absurd path forward in the arts, a much needed reprieve in a time of ever-increasing inequality.