Behind the Scenes at RAISEfashion
The organization is led by Executive Director Felitia Harris. Designers I spoke with described her as someone they aspire to be. Harris is a beloved connector, driven by her mission to provide black designers with the support and resources that have diminished in recent years. Her strategy centers on fostering inclusivity from within. Since the project’s founding in 2020, following the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement, RAISE has tapped into fashion’s existing community, using it as a platform to increase racial equity in the industry through collaboration.
Each year, the organization provides select designers with a seasonal grant, which comes with pro bono consulting to help emerging labels refine their strategic marketing efforts. This year’s spring preview featured brands ranging from Keith Herron’s Cali-based Advisry to Kingsley Gbadegesin’s justice-focused K.NGSLEY. Their garments were showcased alongside a new 90s luxury line by Abercrombie & Fitch, a sponsor of the event. Abercrombie collaborated with Janae Harmon and TyAnn Amos to bring this collection and event to life.
Take a look at some of the Masterclass 2024 designers below.
Aisling Camps
After graduating from Columbia University and New York's Fashion Institute of Technology, designer Aisling Camps immersed herself in the creation of handcrafted knits. Whether or not she is doing a "sustainability lean", her material-conscious label focuses on developing high-quality textiles. Recently, she collaborated with Moda Operandi, traveling to actress Isabella Rossellini’s Long Island farm to create a collection using wool from Rossellini’s heritage sheep — each unique in its characteristics, which Camps likens to “heirloom tomatoes.”
This season, her brand emphasizes textures and fabrication, featuring materials such as boiled wool sourced from Italy and brushed mohair. Novelty yarns serve as the foundation for the collection, heavily inspired by the tree roots and waterfalls of Trinidad, Camps' hometown. Referring to her design process, she explains, “Every garment is perfectly undone, with the scraps of one piece becoming the basis for the next.” The organic lines of her designs, which accentuate the female form, reflect her zero-waste philosophy, using fabric in a way that avoids excess.
Burkindy
Burkina Faso-born artist and designer Burkindy blends cultural symbols with natural elements to honor the heritage that informs his work. In his latest collection, he incorporates fluid, organic forms into bracelets and necklaces designed to drape across the body. His animal-shaped rings, crafted in gold and silver, reflect a deep appreciation for classic designs, yet each piece bears his distinctive touch.
Handcrafting all jewelry molds in Brooklyn, Burkindy has a dedicated storefront in Crown Heights where admirers of the brand can explore the collection. In addition to his jewelry, Burkindy’s creative practice spans Ready-to-Wear and visual art, integral to his artistic process. A pivotal moment for his brand came when he connected with Felitia Harris through a mutual friend, leading to his involvement with RAISE — a transformative experience for his career.
Kingsley Gbadegesin
There’s no deeper meaning behind Kingsley Gbadegesin’s newest collection — the Nigerian-American designer’s work is rooted in the idea that form follows function. For him, it’s about creating a feeling and making something personal for each wearer. Putting a sexy spin on prep-styled pieces, from cropped polos to sheer silhouettes, Gbadegesin designs with fabrics and fits that excite him, fueling his body-centric work.
With a background in sales and merchandising, Gbadegesin shares his vulnerabilities through his creations.“ If you follow the label,” he says, “you’re judging me, you’re feeling me, you’re dressing in me, sans it [the label] being named K.NGSLEY.” Bridging the gap in equity for queer and Black communities is central to his brand’s ethos. During the pandemic, a friend encouraged him to join RAISE, where he met Aisling Camps, his “business wife.” Their collaboration has accelerated the pace and process that shape his garments.
Keith Herron
Keith Herron launched his label, Advisry, in California at just 13, and he has consistently found innovative ways to deliver cult-favorite pieces to his audience. Expanding beyond garments, Herron has explored multimedia projects, including film and music, which further define his brand’s identity.
At this year’s RAISEfashion showcase, Herron joined a BOF panel to discuss building his fanbase, upcoming partnerships with retailers in Korea, and strategies for brands to incorporate wholesale to expand their reach. Leveraging his connections from the program to boost his direct-to-consumer market, Herron continues to create standout pieces, such as graphic tees and wide-leg trousers, paying homage to his inspirations, Pharrell and Virgil Abloh.
