Black Light 19: Brandon Blackwood

June 19, 2023

When an environment is placed under black light, you can see things invisible to the human eye. Last June 2022 I created the first Black Light 19 list to champion the voices and stories of Black people across the creative industry. The result: a veneration of 19 NYC-based intersectional voices who shared work and experiences that inform the purpose of “innovation oriented activism,” the understanding that there is a need for Black infiltration in every occupation. This Juneteenth, office takes that further with the start of our Blacklight column – a bimonthly series pushing for representation and giving flowers to the trailblazers that continue to positively impact our community.

Creative Direction and Production by Livia Rose Johnson
Art Direction by Livia Rose Johnson
Production Coordination by Yinka Bishi
Photography by Andre Uncut
Lighting Design by Sean Shields
Gaffing by James Lewis
Hair/Makeup by Jeannette Williams
Text and Interview by Livia Rose Johnson
Graphic Design by Ryan Scullin
Video Direction Herzen Clerge
Production by Multimedia
Assistant Production by Em

As an activist and culture curator for the last five years, I have seen the peaks and troughs of movements such as BLM, and how the power of visibility can propel movements like this forward. In my pursuit of autonomy and equity, I have moved beyond the exclusive label of “activist” as the factor that enables participation in the Black liberation movement and created this series to set a precedent for the future. From the medical industry to the creative realms of entertainment, fashion and otherwise, the importance of visibility goes beyond legislation and is emulated by those who are doing the work not only in politics but also influencing diversity within their fields. Those in creative spaces are just as crucial as medical personnel who understand the Black body, Black educators who can not only relate but empathize with the youth they are guiding, Black business owners and entrepreneurs that push Black financial equity, and historians that can document and preserve our unaltered truths.

This Juneteenth we sat down to speak with Brandon Blackwood, the international fashion powerhouse and CEO of eponymous label Brandon Blackwood New York. Born and raised in Brooklyn, Brandon is first-generation America born to Jamaican and Chinese parents, which continues to be a large inspiration in his designs. While studying neuroscience at Bard College, he secretly pursued a career in fashion, interning at magazines such as Elle and Nylon. Following his graduation, he started working at a consignment shop where he decided to create something people would be excited to wear. He created a backpack for himself that garnered ample attention and in 2015, started Brandon Blackwood NYC to give people a chance to own their own backpack.

After his first collection was featured in Essence magazine he has expanded within the fashion industry with features in the NY Times, Vogue, Vanity Fair, Forbes, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, Instyle, WWD, and Marie Claire. He was also recently nominated for a CFDA Award for Best Accessory Designer and has since expanded his company into eyewear, outerwear, and footwear. In addition to this, the Brandon Blackwood Foundation also launches today as a force with which to further uplift and fund the communities he is a part of.

We are in a time where people are celebrated by being their true selves vs. following “trends” and it’s a really cool place to be.

Can you share with us a bit about yourself, your journey, and how you found your passion for the fashion industry?

I majored in neuroscience at Bard College and during my summers I would intern at places like NYLON without my parents knowing. When I graduated, and I didn’t know they would do this, they read aloud our senior thesis and I did mine on Diane Von Furstenberg’s iconic “Wrap Dress” and let’s just say – it was a quiet ride home. After I graduated, I ended up working at a Buy Sell Trade store and made myself a backpack just because. Some of the stylists and editors that visited the store, noticed it, and so in 2015, I decided to launch my company with three styles, one being that backpack I made for myself – The Portmore.

Your personal story and background are incredibly inspiring. What inspired you to pursue a career in design, and how did your intersectional identity shape your creative path? How do you navigate and reconcile the different aspects of your identity to create meaningful and authentic designs?

Growing up my mom always dressed up for work, I saw how much effort she put into how she looked and it influenced me in my own fashion journey. My designs are inspired by my family and friends. I always design with them in mind because I want to make sure I have something for everybody – a style my grandma would love or something for my 18 yr old cousin.

Representation is so important for marginalized communities. How do you approach the challenge of creating fashion that is not only inclusive but also authentically represents the diverse identities within the Black queer community?

That’s why I started my line with handbags because they’re sizeless in that sense and everyone can wear a bag. When I decided to move into shoes I made sure I created for everyone by having a wide size range (35-44). It was also important to me to make something that my friends and family could afford. When you start a business they are your biggest supporters, and sometimes brands make the mistake of making items way too pricey – it was always important to me to keep everything at an accessible price.

Maintaining authenticity and a real voice is crucial in today's world. How do you ensure that your brand stays true to your vision while navigating the pressures and expectations of the fashion industry?

It can be hard to not look at others and think “Oh I could’ve done that.” But I just stay focused by sticking to my vision and what I want to accomplish. I think one thing that has always helped me was looking to my followers or “cousins” as I refer them for advice, this brand is theirs as it is mine. I started this brand having no idea what I was doing and I have just learned along the way.

Fashion is often seen as a reflection of society. What role does fashion play in challenging norms, breaking stereotypes, and reshaping narratives? How can it be a catalyst for change and empower individuals to embrace their authentic selves?

Style right now is all about individuality, if you like what you wear and feel powerful you look great. We are in a time where people are celebrated by being their true selves vs. following “trends” and it’s a really cool place to be.

Collaboration and community are essential for growth and progress. Can you share any experiences where collaboration with other black creatives or organizations has elevated your work or allowed for new opportunities?

The collaboration with Black in Fashion Fair x Basquiat Estate was definitely one of my favorites! It allowed us to work with different mediums. It was an honor to be included!

As a successful entrepreneur and trailblazer in the fashion industry, and a source of inspiration for many aspiring creatives, what advice would you give to those who are just starting their journey? Are there any key lessons or principles you've learned that you believe are crucial for success in the industry?

I would say don’t take the word “no” personally. There were so many times I was told no. I just stayed true to my vision and continued to work on my brand. Looking back on it I realized if I had landed these opportunities I wouldn't have been ready to accept it. Sometimes the word no is a good thing - you have to be ready to accept the challenges.

Looking ahead, what are your future aspirations and goals for your brand? How do you envision your work contributing to the continued growth and empowerment of the black queer community and beyond? Looking to the future, what are your aspirations for yourself and your brand?

I am definitely looking forward to expanding my brand. We have so many things in store, I can’t wait to show everyone! In the near future, I’d like to be more of a household name and continue to help out the community with my foundation (The Brandon Blackwood Foundation) which I am officially launching on June 19th.

I also would love to do more fun customs and hopefully be ready to wear soon, it was so incredible making the gown recently for Beyonce and I want to do more moments like that. I want to continue to do the unexpected.

Every success story has its ups and downs. Can you tell us about a specific challenge or setback you faced along the way, and how you overcame it? What valuable lessons did you learn from that experience?

Building my brand was tough because I started out with no fashion training, no mentors, and no investors. I really had to build my brand from the ground up. There were times I thought I couldn’t do it but I persevered. I learned success isn’t a straight line, just when you think it’s over that’s when it really begins.

In addition to your achievements, you have also made an impact on the broader fashion industry and the community. Can you discuss any initiatives or collaborations or wins you have undertaken that have uplifted yourself and others to create positive change?

I created my foundation to uplift our community. We are donating to several organizations such as The Door, The Lawyer’s Committee, and many more.

Fashion

TEMET: If Skims Met Skins

November 04, 2024

I often wonder where the first “afters” happened — whether it was right here in New York or somewhere else. The afters: that hazy, half-lit party that stretches into the morning, more intimate than dancing skin-to-skin with someone you just met, where the crowd thins to only those willing to let the night bleed into morning. Here, you get to watch the sunrise together too.

But today, no matter where you go in the world, if you're at a rave or DIY party, there's probably an afters. If you've never been to one, or don’t care to be, you’ve probably scrolled through your feed and seen that one story: morning sun flooding a cluttered living room, hot people still dancing, bodies tangled on a worn couch — lost in the aftermath of a night that refuses to end.

Creative Director Kiernan Francis
Designer TEMET
Photographer (Still) Alejandro Yullo
Director of Photography & Editor (Moving) Ava Papunen
Stylist Abby Bencie
Makeup Rory Alvarez
Casting Director Kiernan Francis
Lighting Director & Retoucher Lida Ramsay
Executive Producer Kiernan Francis
Associate Producer Ava Perman
Brand Producer Juanita
Soundtrack: "Revolution," Billy Doll (EXCLUSIVE RELEASE)
Makeup Assistant Kandi Milk
Fashion Assistant Jackson Prus
Production Assistant Peyton Nguyen
Production Assistant Emmanuel Delator
Production Assistant Axl Checho

This editorial for Chilean-based TEMET, a brand deeply woven into the underground music and nightlife scene, captures that noctural alchemy. Creative directed by New York’s own Kiernan Francis, the shoot draws inspiration from the afters’ electric liminality. Francis sought to celebrate the paradox of private and public life — where our truest selves might emerge within nightlife and fade into the versions of ourselves we show the world by daylight.

The cast was a mix of DJs, artists, and street-scouted creatives — some known to Francis from the scene, others discovered through social media. The styling leaned into shapewear as an experience, framed by a backdrop that evokes the afters: crowded couches, messy rooms, and the chaos of a night extending into morning. The result? A series that feels like SKIMS meeting Skins UK.