12 hours in and we have absolutely lost our minds. We meet actress and fabulosa Lilia Gabbro at the opening of ‘Dear Inn,’ an exhibition featuring and curated by her boyfriend, Dahli Ball, and friends Unai Ricou and Igna Buneri three floors up in an open loft in the town center. Visitors sit on the furniture-less floor smoking cigarettes and drinking beer. The three artists' works are displayed throughout the space. Dahli’s pieces are shockingly impressive; straight out of a time capsule cleared out with a fresh set of eyes. We’ve all developed some metaphorical TMJ from having our jaws dropped for 12 hours straight. How is EVERYONE here SO hot and SO happy? How are all of these beautiful people tucked into these tiny streets? They seem to be breathing life into one another.
Wednesday (5/29)
The sun is out and The Vincci Bit has served Mathilde and I possibly the sexiest hotel breakfast we’ve ever had. 7 coffees in and I’m writing on the Vincci roof terrace in my bikini. I look over to Liv, who’s laying on a sun lounger on the phone, telling the recipient “to just reel back and let the vibes take over.” Liv pops back to the room and finds Mathilde meditating on the bed. The Barca lifestyle has truly taken over and we haven’t stepped foot in the Parc del Forum.
But reality always manages to find its way back — this time in the form of my very red sunburn, proving my role as designated ‘Brit abroad.’ If it wasn’t already the broken attempts to speak Spanish with a Manchester accent, it is extremely clear now — we do no good job at blending in.
We walk into Poblenou for a pre-Primavera spritz — or more exactly Estrella for Liv, Aperol for Mathilde, and Sangria for myself. It’s an area close to where we’re staying and recommended by our Barcelona spirit-guide Lilia.
8:30 PM rolls around and it’s time for night 1 Primavera. We take the scenic route along the coastline to get to Parc del Forum. An incredible and tacky in its finest form marriage proposal is happening on the beach… we are feeling the Barcelona love tonight.
9:19 PM we arrive amidst floods of Spanish teens in baggy jeans and tanks, hippy holidayers in bird shirts and garish pants and Berlinified mullet-heads clad in all black and leather. There are SO many hot guys at the Aperol pop-up. Mullet no.1 is spotted in its badly bleached glory accompanied by a fellow turquoise-dyed head. We march on with one mission in mind: Aperol.
All we can now think of is stripes. Classically French, vertical, red and black, blue and white, on tank tops, long sleeves, dresses and pants — stripes are the unexpected Primavera trend. Bleached denim. Tracksuits. Adidas stripes. Emo teens with their eyeliner. Mullet gays and their white tanks.
In planning a press trip to an international festival, we failed to consider the fact we had to get quotes from people who are presumably not native English speakers. We pile together our resources: French Mathilde plus Liv and I’s pieced-together high school Spanish. Thank the lord for Duolingo which Liv has been practicing routinely on the sun loungers each morning. With a Spritz in each hand, all felt right in the world.
Mullets 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 are ahead of us in the queue. And what a range we have stumbled upon. Bleached and brown curly-haired ones stuffed under caps and paired with denim overalls. Behind us, a certain bleach blonde mullet signals the Berlinification of Primavera — dressed in all black, sunnies and completed with a mustache.
Phoenix begins their set as we reach the front of the Aperol queue. ‘It’s ok, as long as they don’t start with Lisztomania’… And like clockwork, it plays. We run off to the stage — pissed off the Aperol, dizzy from the heatstroke or just pure adrenaline, I don’t know — we manage to squash ourselves into the crowd. People are giddy and dancing to the band’s nostalgic 2010s sounds — you can’t not love it. A man behind us bald with a thick mustache loses 10 years as he leaps into the sky up and down like a boy. They tell us this is their favourite festival. Liv is absolutely going for it. Mathilde realises that, like her, they are French hotties “and now I’m really into it”. And hotties they are — Silver Fox Thomas Hedlund dominates the drums in a Hawaiian shirt. Liv says all she wants is for someone to pick her up and ‘spin her around like a pizza’. Thomas, drummer of Phoenix, is more than capable of this.
Wednesday night is a celebration, a party of letting go, the perfect starting headliner to Primavera’s insane line-up.