The Charming Characters of British Formality

“This collection feels like an extension of the art of Saville Row in a way, a practice that’s far more alive across Italian territory.” Like subtle neologisms that are continuously evolving with an increasingly capricious pace in the world of fashion communication, Fall 2024 presented looks that settled smoothly into Daley’s canon. Flip back a couple of chapters, and you can see that relaxed formalwear is a perennial standby.

But references, can one ever have enough? The collection marks a trip that begins at British boarding schools, a familiar source of inspiration for Daley, hence the towering pillow installation that greeted guests as they came in. “Pillows epitomize an abstract idea of a dorm room, so those references that I was looking at are those of university students of the past, used to sharing living quarters. On that note, I really wanted Florence to inform the collection, but one can see that when looking at the tapestry coming in and being emblazoned onto blankets and textiles.” Academia-appropriate black and white is teamed with Champagne hints, juxtaposing subtle touchpoints with a sharper design edge. “This season, a new intimacy abounds as we are taken inside the dormitories. “Here, the formality that shrouds these codified worlds is stripped to instead give way to private moments, many of which have happened after long, winding nights of revelry. This manifests best in a look that sees full Oxford tails styled without trousers and so just underwear pairs with loose-fitted briefs. Ties are removed and top buttons undone,” read the notes. A poignant, personal and potent sentiment, that of Daley, that echoes his feels in the location choice. “When we were thinking of show locations, I left this room and immediately came to the conclusion that Palazzo Vecchio was going to be the one,” says Daley. “This location is so important, because it holds an imperative significance in terms of democracy for the city of Florence."

As for the silhouettes, Daley doesn’t overtly do retro, but his clean-cut lines had a standaway seventies shape. His tweak was a touch of intarsia as the collection moved on, specifically in the silhouette of tapestry blankets made of Rowan yarns. They were utterly charming, and were transformed into floor-length collared rugby-style shirts evoking the act of wrapping up for “both modesty in stolen moments and offering a comforting embrace.” Though not as flashy as most offerings of the typical dandy purveyor, his layering of all of those earthy tones and fluid shapes was quite beautiful — particularly when they steamed out together for the finale. In all, it was an impressive effort.