The Chunky Sneaker Champion

The new shoes drop May 10th, available at Opening Ceremony. Text by John Martin Tilley.

Fashion

The Intersection of Craftsmanship and Sensuality: Louis-Gabriel Nouchi x ECCO.kollektive

November 20, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has partnered with French designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which showcases footwear, ready-to-wear pieces, and accessories. Nouchi, known for his provocative exploration of masculinity and gender norms, brings a distinct sense of sensuality to the collaboration, aligning perfectly with ECCO’s innovative leather craftsmanship.

Nouchi is the latest addition to the collective of designers invited to merge their vision with the ECCO's technical expertise. “Fashion is a true laboratory,” says Nouchi. “Being able to push the boundaries of materials and development with ECCO is a unique opportunity. I feel extremely lucky.” His collection, which debuted at Paris Fashion Week, is built around the concept of the human body, drawing inspiration from its textures and sensuality.

The collection features high-shine, polished leathers and a strict color palette of black, oxblood, and pearlescent white. The slit motif, a signature detail of Nouchi’s designs, is incorporated throughout the range—subtly hinting at eroticism through reveal-and-conceal details. These slashes appear on shoes, bags (including a Tote and Crossbody), and ready-to-wear items, adding a provocative edge to the otherwise minimalist aesthetic.

In his collaboration with ECCO, Nouchi incorporates the brand’s renowned stretch leather, a material that plays a pivotal role in achieving the fluidity and refined edge of the collection. “There are no limits when working with ECCO,” Nouchi explains. “The technical capabilities of the leather allow me to create pieces that are unexpectedly lightweight, yet still convey strength and sensuality.”

The collection features a selection of footwear, including unisex Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and platform Truck Lace loafers. The loafers take on a 90s minimalism, with squared toes and gently thickened soles borrowed from ECCO’s archives. The Truck Lace loafers, however, take on a futuristic flair, with a platform design developed specifically for Nouchi, inspired by sleek car lines and modern futurism. “The platform is a nod to the relationship between design and technology, but also my love for the Tesla Cybertruck,” Nouchi says, laughing. “It might be a bit controversial, but I really like it. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look, combined with that raw brutalism, really resonate with me.

Ready-to-wear pieces blend tailored separates with the relaxed, futuristic vibe of the shoes. A single-breasted blazer, pants, and long-line shorts are made from fine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish, which echoes the robust yet refined nature of the collection. In a bold mix of softness and structure, Nouchi also introduces fluid pieces, such as a column dress and pencil skirt, composed of strips of leather embroidered onto bi-stretch tulle.

“The collection celebrates the collision of the refined and the robust,” says Panos Mytaros, CEO of ECCO. “Louis-Gabriel’s precise approach to design is the perfect match for our technical skill with leather. We’re proud to have worked together to create something that truly embodies his passion for innovation and detail.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available starting November 19, with prices ranging from €125 to €2,295. The collaboration is part of ECCO.kollektive’s expanding roster of designers, which includes previous collaborations with figures like Peter Do and Nina Christen.

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Fashion

Escaping the Glass Cage

November 19, 2024

For years, she stood still, watching life rush past her, a quiet observer behind the glass. Now, the glass is broken, and she steps out into the unknown. She walks through the city, caught between two worlds—part of it, yet apart from it.

Her journey is quiet but bold, searching for something she’s never understood, something just out of reach. On church steps and under glowing city lights, she questions everything: the rules, the past, and where she truly belongs. Each step feels both freeing and uncertain.

A curious soul in a borrowed life, she keeps moving forward, leaving behind only whispers of her escape, like a fleeting shadow in the night.