Oh and the peacock feathered suit was killer. See it, and our other favorite looks from backstage at the presentation, below.
There was a genuine wit to the artsy stuff here, but it served to level-up the atmosphere of Abstraction. “In this collection, we weave a tapestry of rich elements: textiles, art prints, styles, and palettes,” pointed out the designer, explaining that “much like an art exhibition, where each piece, self-assured, flourishes alone while flourishing even brighter within the collective. Creating a unique experience was a driving force behind the Spring 2024 collection; For me, it is an endeavor to stretch the limits of the mind, igniting inspiration that knows no boundaries.” Speaking of references, the label has greatly ticked along this season, avoiding the peaks and troughs that other lines experience. Spring saw a partnership with New York-based artist Heather J. Chontos and London- based artist Aline Gaiad, conceived through vibrant motifs on styles like soft dresses, blouses and feminine skirts.
Munthe specializes in clothing with a quirky vibe and a commercial appeal. It was all breezy, but far from sloppy: sumptuous woven fabrics, resplendent sequins, patchwork denim and vivid patterns worked well, as did intricate jacquard patterns.
There are lots of prickly questions to ponder when it comes to the calibration of fashion and art; without real thought, one risks running into sour crassness. This season, however, these looks didn’t veer in the direction of naive-land. Au contraire: MUNTHE’s artfully articulated, ethically-minded aesthetic continues offering a promising act.
And in fact, this is not the first time REMAIN has felt the urge to strip things back. But leave the reinvention of classics to a Scandi vision who always puts the polish at the forefront of the edgy. Still, you could sense that edge was gaining ground in this season’s proposal of femininity, spanning across dynamic leather pieces, gauzy transparent knits, to the delicate shirting and flowing sheer hand-embellished skirts — to wit, they were intensifying the effect of each item through the power of contrasts. Sculptural silhouettes in audacious cuts felt more rebellious than the subtle, neutral color pairings and volumes here, accentuated by in-built boning, fitted and ruched waist details, and chunky belts.
Retailers will gravitate towards coated denim and diaphanous blouses, which could blend easily into just about any wardrobe — ensuring that even the simplest of offerings never end up feeling too drafty.
The dressed up casual looks were the key winners: That’s because Roe and Eskildsen share a passion for craftsmanship and a creative edge that outstrips a du jour aesthetic. Simple? Yes, somewhat — but the fitted shape and the quietly sensual dresses kept the lineup nicely pulled together. The designers have worked with the gracious blend of minimalist design, muted colors, and organic textures, creating a serene atmosphere by way of delicate crocheted pieces, and-sewn and tailored garments with special design details. The fatal touch? The bow, which plays a central part. As the ultimate symbol of the feminine, it leaps out in different ways and reappears in the many masculine silhouettes.
The biggest takeaway, staple-wise, was a shift into what Roe, Eskildsen and their team are calling “feminine effortlessness.” We’ve heard that term for a while now. Yet even though the trendiness of relaxedwear has come and gone, it doesn't make cropped toppers and plunging necklines with sharp edges or billowing trousers any less desirable. In a way, the dynamism and elegance apparent in these pieces felt a little like Haute Parisian take on color, volume and proportion. Only this being The Garment, there’s a subtler, everyone appeal.
What might be more challenging for their fans: a 19th-century headwear piece in an off white color, a black see-through figure-hugging bodysuit or a white knitted two-piece that had arms extremely lengthened to the knee. These marked a little overly crumbly section of the lineup and not quite as poised and streamlined as the sharply-cut, earth-tinged outerwear and stylish shirts seen elsewhere. That Scandi workwear combo has been the chicest thing we’ve seen so far at Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring 2024. Functional, but highly covetable, it’s a nudge that most customers will likely respond to.
