At The Circus

February 06, 2019

Although there were no tightropes, no magicians and no lions, Vasilis Loizides took us to the circus for F/W ‘19.

Urging one to rethink modern day power dynamics, the show, both dramatic and weighty, played with the three-way relationship between the performers, the audience and the designer, begging the question: who really holds the power in today’s world? With a collection as strong and unafraid as Loizides’, we’re thinking the answer is him.

Comprised of fifteen looks, the show stuck to jewel-toned pieces and circus-themed prints in powerful and innovative silhouettes, exuding an overall exotic and maximalist vibe. Our favorite pieces included a pair of sparkly cowboy chaps, coin-fringed tops and a 3D elephant head velvet shirt-dress—with matching pants of course.

Text by Caroline Brown
Photos by Phoenix Johnson

Oh and the peacock feathered suit was killer. See it, and our other favorite looks from backstage at the presentation, below.

Fashion

Kiko Kostadinov and the Avant-garde Godmothers of Fashion

January 24, 2023

Nodding to the long overlooked legacies of French designer Anne-Marie Beretta, Italian icon Mariuccia Mandelli aka Krizia, American costume designer Irene Lentz and sisters Sorelle Fontana — Kiko Kostandinov's Fall/Winter 23 collection weaves together staple motifs of avant-garde womenswear with the trademark, sports-inspired structuring the brand has become known for.

With a palate including "chartruse" "vermillion" "violet" and "cobalt", and incorporating textures like felted knitwear — the collection takes an unexpected turn from the sleek and futuristic style we've seen previously from Kiko, and we're faced with references that feel... RenFaire?

But, brilliant as ever, the designer delivers the plot twist to perfection. It's dark, eerie, and absolutely otherworldly. It feels like Kiko — while paying respect to the faces of fashion royalty many have unfortunately forgotten.

Text by Anna Zanes
Photos by Alex Soroka

Fashion

Kenzo FW23: The Cultural Melting Pot

January 23, 2023

Rich in vibrant colors and refined textures, Kenzo's artistic director Nigo mixed motifs close to his own heart and an appreciation for British, American and Japanese street and sub-cultures for their Fall-Winter 2023 collection. Paying homage to historic as well as modern fashion influences from both Eastern and Western worlds, Nigo incorporated genre-bending eclecticism of the '60s, vintage and rock and roll style of the '70s alongside the joie de vivre of Kenzo Takada's traditional Japanese creations. From a punkish '80s stripe motif, floral patterns and a goldfish graphic — representing a Japanese symbol of good fortune.

Across various expressions, Nigo utilized the Japanese quilting technique sashiko. Also known as rice-grain fabric, sashiko is often employed in traditional kendo (martial arts) uniforms. For Fall-Winter 2023, Nigo drew on this technique to apply on nylon, denim, wool bases, knitwear and jersey.

Text by Marisa Kalil-Barrino
Photo courtesy of Kenzo

Along with apparel, Kenzo's Fall-Winter 2023 includes bags, shoes and accessories by various fashion concepts in different cultures. The Rue Vivienne Satchel and Kinchaku pouch, for example, are influenced by Scottish dress and kendo practices. Meanwhile, the Kenzo Western is an authentic cowboy boot representative of Western American culture. The skate sneaker draws to Nigo's personal inspiration of '90s skateboarding culture made to be functional for performance-wear.

Nigo also pays tribute to Great Britain through deerstalker hats, bob hats and large, collapsible berets. Knitted hats with punk mohawks and 3D logo belts bring Nigo's youthful and hip-hop themes into play to bring the entire collection together.

Fashion

Take Refuge in Marine Serre FW23

January 23, 2023

Towers of compacted clothing waste pile to the ceiling as the sun falls into the Grande Halle de La Vilette, home to Marine Serre’s latest presentation in Paris. The Fall/Winter 23 show, which has been opened to the public as well as the usual front row faces, has been constructed to replicate a refuge center. As a society, we're here to join forces against our own, self-imposed epic tragedy: the present, and worsening climate disaster.

“How can we fail to think about the ever-quickening timeline on which we find ourselves trapped," the brand cries out, "forced to maintain the unsustainable rhythms of our daily lives that separate us from both ourselves and others?” But with hope and safety against this environment of climate chaos, perhaps the apocalypse isn't inevitable.

Text by India Espy-Jones
Images couresy of Marine Serre

Through signs and symbols, Marine Serre presented the Rising Shelter collection in five capsules each built on themes of engagement, rebellion, and transformation. The first group regenerated the excess resource of tote bags to manufacture jackets, overshirts, skirts, and tops with a “TOTE BAGS REGENERATED” logo. To offset the impact of tote production, the bag would have to be used daily for 54 years which coins Marine Serre's "BAG FOR LIFE" printed on the top. In the next group, the now-iconic Marine Serre moiré pattern is presnted with repurposed denim, household linens, tees and leather. Rebellious motocross colors and patterns embellished with faded moon symbols add a gentle tone to the new season.

Signature knit material resurface mid-collection to add a “playful coquettish spirit” with full-body fluff as Grandma’s deadstock living room fabrics transformed into “body-skimming patchwork.” A selection of feminine black looks with contrasting top stitches add tailored options to the wildcard collection and to end, acid-green tones fall on floral patterns with repurposed silk scarves to orient focus on rebirth and nature close the show.