Oh and the peacock feathered suit was killer. See it, and our other favorite looks from backstage at the presentation, below.
office had a chance to speak to Prisca backstage, post-show about the bold new collection and her comeback show, below.
KCE — A lot of your designs reflect youth culture and that demographic’s style tendencies at a certain point in time. In what ways did youth culture influence this collection?
Prisca — Taking a walk and observing what people are wearing out has never been so appealing to me. New York City feels eager, sexy, and inspiring. The way the now is reflected in clothing choices and overall attitudes was the starting point of this collection. The process has been very seamless because there was a sense of realness and freedom throughout.
If you could describe or classify this collection in three words, what would they be?
Individuality, sense of humor, and empowerment.
Who is one person you can see flawlessly donning a garment from the new collection?
All of the looks were created based on the models that we met in the casting and every model had to love their look and feel amazing in it. This season, we mostly got inspired by their personalities and built a look for them. The casting was not chosen to fit the clothes, the clothes were tools to enhance an already existing personality or a personal fantasy. Each silhouette is first of all someone and possibly everyone.
What aspect of this collection are you most proud of?
How the models (and eventually, the customers) felt in the clothing.
How does this collection display your growth and evolution over time, both personally and for the brand?
Spring/Summer 2023 feels like the most personal collection thus far. I feel more connected to my customers than ever, and I am getting a better understanding of what they want to feel when buying PRISCAVera. The dialogue between my customer and I is my focus and what we both have to say feels clearer and more powerful now.
Sold through DSM in stores and online, 100% of all profits from sales of the collection go directly back to Sky High Farm 501(C)(3) in furtherance of its commitment to regenerative farming practices and an environmentally holistic, equity-focused approach to promoting food sovereignty.
This sentiment is one many stray from during modern fashion weeks, some choosing to highlight diversity as a cornerstone of the metaphorical fabric of their brand, some to save face. But the fear of being “cancelled” is one Barragán leans into this season, in a multitude of ways. There are many things I have felt this fashion week. Hungry, inspired, overwhelmed by the line at Heaven, underwhelmed by how few people knew the Maya Hee Maya Hoo song Doja Cat attempted to cover… The hair and music have been overall great. More or less it’s been a nice time. But what wasn’t just a nice time was Barragán. And for that, I am grateful.
From the all white cast, to the references which spanned homoeroticism to meth addiction, botched botox to Limp Bizkit and border politics— references which, unlike many shows, delivered — there wasn’t a moment during the presentation I felt at ease. Models in “Karen”-esque hair with bloodied, bulbous prosthetic lips emerged from a graffitied port-a-potty kicking piles of literal garbage and dollar bill-printed toilet paper down the runway. But far be it for Barragán to make a political statement just for show — true to form, each piece in the collection was magnificent. As always, the designer’s careful construction of the garments was a brilliant amalgamation of 90s cyberpunk — zip off cargo elements — and archive Mugler in its diligent intricacy of shape, fit and construction.
To have a sense of humor, albeit a dark and nauseating one, without sacrificing taste or aesthetic sensibility is a true triumph and one we won't forget easily, no matter how burnt out we might be by the end of this exhausting and energetic fashion season. Victor Barragán made us feel, and think. “It’s social commentary, I look forward to seeing how people react. I know they’ll get angry. I hope they do,” the designer tells me, whom I arrived at the show ready to greet with some pre-written questions. Each went out the window by the time the show finished— the first thing out of my mouth, still half-agape, was, “Well you must love America.” Though I meant it laden with sarcasm, Barragán took the statement to heart, earnestly telling me, “I’m obsessed with America.”
