Oh and the peacock feathered suit was killer. See it, and our other favorite looks from backstage at the presentation, below.
T-shirts are bonded with aluminum, feathers are simulated via multiple embroidery techniques, draped dresses reinterpret archival pieces with exclusive colors, and over a quarter of the the pieces are made with upcycled items. For this collection, Demna reaches deep into his bag of tricks to methodically curate his second show with the House.
In addition to the show, Balenciaga also opened up a brand new couture store the very same day. Located in Paris, the store is where Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his salons and ateliers in 1937 and worked until 1968.
Roseberry’s vision flirts with the Schiap archives, but ample room is left for his own artistic inspirations (Carolyne Roehm, for example). Look one begins with a few nods to the iconic old Schiaparellli: embroidered grapes imitating archival Schiaparelli jewelry, a tightly corseted waist, and a skirt that drapes like a royal curtain around the hips. Roseberry exemplifies an expert ability to sculpt such abstract shapes in clothing while still remaining body-obsessed. Billowing taffeta skirts that seem to defy physical laws stand in contrast with satins that hold elegant shapes.
Tendrils of embroidered flowers and beaded fruits cascade down from earrings and scale the boning of corsets. Vibrant sculpted leather bouquets sprouting from sleeves replace metallic botanics later in the collection, and leather birds sit atop the shoulders of models. These heavenly and earthly cornucopious details, feathers, and fowl transform his models into disciples of Mother Nature. Roseberry is clear in his pursuit to stay enchanted with the whimsical beauty of fashion without submitting to the pressure of making a political statement with each collection.
Like Elsa blurred the line between fashion and art, Roseberry in this collection blurs the boundary between fashion and jewelry, featuring garments crafted entirely of stranded baroque pearls and topaz beads. His attention to detail is so explicit, down to the way the tails of ribbons curl. The collection ends with a striking red velvet skirt and asymmetrical corset bejeweled by a capilarious breastplate over the heart, as if to blow a kiss to the type of creating that Elsa championed, and Roseberry is after.
This new collection is more than just a promposal. Its influences and thematics expand the range, intending to show how trauma following experiences of queerness and grief can confuse our timelines. This collection is about adrenaline and anxiety. The inspirations of this collection narrowed to the structures made omnipresent in films like "It Follows." As well as the swirling makeout session of shame and horror at the prom in "Carrie." Panic and timelessness come together, like two kids parking at Hotel 6 before leaving for college.
Be sure to go to the website for when the collection releases, as you don't want to be the only one not going to the dance. Invite yourself into teen angst and classic horror with this collection, or prepare to get doused in pig blood.
