Anchored in emotional resonance, the collection draws from utilitarian and protective elements, merging them with soft, flowing fabrics that speak to the complexity of feminine strength. By refusing to confine itself within traditional gender expressions, SRVC champions a woman who is unapologetically both strong and vulnerable, urging her to embrace every facet of her identity. Preview the lookbook below.
“Saks Potts has remained an iconic and enduring Danish brand for their innate ability to capture something not only about the Danish visual aesthetic but also about the Danish state of mind. From the focus on community and collaboration, to showcasing in spaces that herald eponymous spaces in the capital, it feels like a perfect fit that with the new focus for the Wessel & Vett prize comes a nomination of Saks Potts for this equally iconic award.” - Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO Copenhagen Fashion Week
Cecilie Thorsmark by James Cochrane
With the announcement of the brand as a finalist of this year’s Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize—Scandinavia’s most prestigious independent accolade—the designers speak to office about their newfound approach, inspirations and the merit of authenticity.
The Danish minimalist template has become increasingly commonplace in fashion, as the forward march of quiet luxury has rolled in amid recent seasons. Saks Potts first began by making eye-popping coats in body-hugging forms, but there’s a breezier touch that inhabits the brand now. How have you found this creative shift?
The creative shift in Saks Potts has been a natural and evolutionary process, closely tied to our personal growth and experiences. When we founded the brand in 2014 straight out of high school, we were inspired by the need for colorful and dramatic fur coats and vibrant going-out pieces to brighten up the prevalent dark monochromatic colors in the Scandinavian fashion scene. As we've matured and witnessed the changing world around us, our focus has shifted towards longevity and craftsmanship. We now design pieces that can be cherished as part of the perfect wardrobe or summer suitcase. Our creations, such as the Harris tweed styles, denim, shirts, silk dresses, and outerwear pieces, are meant to last a lifetime with minimal maintenance. This evolution represents our desire to adapt to the changing times while staying true to our core values and aesthetics.
It’s an understandable shift, as you both met really young in your native Copenhagen, Kindergarten, and you founded your eponymous brand at just 19 and 20 years old. Was it an easy transition?
Mentally, the transition to founding Saks Potts was relatively smooth because we were driven by our instincts and passion. We knew and could feel that creating this direction was the right move for us.
Have your creative references and sources of inspirations changed since the first time you launched?
Our brand has always been a reflection of what inspires us in life, especially international cultural trends, combined with our upbringing in Copenhagen. Barbara's background in art history has also had an impact on shaping our collections. In the beginning, we drew inspiration from strong themes, resulting in eye-catching collections like the Biker one. As we've grown, we have toned down the thematic approach while focusing on timeless propositions that are deeply rooted in our personal experiences and values. The shift has allowed us to create more authentic and versatile designs that resonate with a broader audience, yet still being a very personal reflection of where we are in life.
You’ve partnered with other brands over the last seasons, and your wardrobe has gone from strength to strength by introducing a wealth of timeless propositions, including a strong take on menswear. Do you believe in the power of collaboration?
Collaboration holds a special place in the heart of Saks Potts. For us, it is not a commercial move; rather, it is a deeply personal and meaningful experience. We believe in collaborating with people from our community who inspire us and share similar values and aesthetics. Such partnerships enrich the storytelling and authenticity of our brand. When we collaborate, it is about creating something unique and beautiful that goes beyond what we could have achieved individually.
What does Saks Potts stand for now, and how would you position it within the Danish creative canvas?
At present, Saks Potts stands for authenticity, community, female empowerment, and craftsmanship. These core values drive our daily decisions and inspire everything we do. As a brand, we strive to be positioned as a new luxury brand, not only in Denmark but on an international level. Our focus on authentic values and the high quality of our products sets us apart and allows us to connect with a diverse and global audience. We take pride in being a part of the Danish creative canvas, adding our unique perspective and creative expression to the rich tapestry of Danish fashion.
Catherine Saks, Barbara Potts by Simon Knudsen
Talking about the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize, Scandinavia’s most prestigious and influential accolade in the Nordic region, how influential would it be for your business and where would it lead to?
The Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize holds immense significance for us, and being nominated for the second time in 2023 is truly an honor. We are appreciative that the love and dedication we put into our brand is recognized. And we know the prize will provide a platform for boosting our visibility further but also solidify our position in the industry, both in Scandinavia and beyond. We are excited to see what opportunities and recognition from the nomination will bring - we are looking very much forward to an exciting process!
What’s next for the brand?
The future for Saks Potts is characterized by excitement and possibilities. We have recently opened our store in Bredgade, Copenhagen, located in the art district, which has been such a success. We are incredibly proud of our growth and the milestones we have achieved, including holding our biggest show to date. In 2022, we made a significant step by hiring our first-ever CEO, signaling a new phase of development and expansion. As a brand that embraces unpredictability, we believe that the element of surprise is what makes Saks Potts unique. Our focus remains on producing authentic and high-quality products while continuing to surprise and delight our amazing audience. The future for Saks Potts is bright, and we are eager to embrace all that it has in store for us.
His latest collection, the designer’s third as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s New Talent program, was an essential part of the work he undertook under that remit and throughout his career as an independent designer. (Latimier performed as Ms. Conda, his drag alter ego, at his Pitti debut.) With Martin Scorcese’s depiction of money-making-masculinity in his 2013 film Wolf of Wall Street as his jumping-off point, Latimier riffed on the look and vibe of “archetypes of men in power idolized in North-American film and television,” conjuring merino-infected wool twills and mesh intarsia knits. This designer isn’t particularly literal, so the looks were finessed by a figure-boosting effect and mixed liberally with volume, which seemed to toy with the perception of success and how it relates to that of masculinity, showcasing the ability of independent designers to reinvent themselves in the most troubled times, beyond all manner of restraint. But “restraint” isn’t the first word that springs to mind when decoding the oeuvre of Latimmier. In a soulful way, however, that was the quality that defined the new collection, which culled references from a world where everything is for sale and money are the judge, jury and executioner. “A world where one’s attire is a direct reflection of one’s status,” read the notes. It’s an adroit vision, that of Latimier, which fuels a sense of realism that speaks volumes on how the current state of fashion, which is grappling with a society that has lacks restraints on multiple fronts and ignites calamities on a cultural, political and environmental level. Overall, the focus Latimier brought to bear on this season served not only to help decipher the brand’s potent point of view, but to elevate a fresh lineup that was purposeful as it were resourceful. So here’s hoping it continues in this direction.
Why? According to the designer, just because. But beyond all manner of suppositions, Kongshaug applied a decision to marry recycled nylon — produced in Lombardia region, Italy, woven in a way it makes it feel like satin — to conceive an extremely ethical fabric with an equally durable edge. Once Kongshaug had made those decisions, he got rigorous. “My mission while devising FORZA COLLECTIVE was to create no-nonsense, yet technically advanced pieces of highest quality that are as beautiful on the inside as on the outside, while a minimum carbon footprint is guaranteed,” he notes. “We call it utilitarian couture.”
Kristoffer Kongshaug
Gorpcore — A style that proposes utility wear, focused on the functionality of the garment or accessory, belonging to the outerwear world — is in the eye of the beholder, and Kongshaug has his own take. “I realized I always tend to return to wear the same nylon staples and, being a fabric that is normally associated with sportswear, it inspired me to take on the challenge of working with the material in an untraditional way and create something that was maybe not obvious at first but as a result seems so evident.”
Proportion and volume were handled with poise: a curvilinear dress seemed almost imperceptibly too long, and the result was a certain haphazard attempt of uncool cool, without verging on the chaotic. Elsewhere, the utilitarian theme was elaborated ever so softly in this first outing, with a graceful lineup of crafty garments that looked, winningly, like subtle uniforms aligned with the Scandi aficionado. To wit: A pitch black, functional bomber jacket flared out just so slightly at the wrist for a fuss-free effect, while its cargo trouser pairing created an ensemble that was simultaneously smart and streamlined. Practical but plush, it summed up Kongshaug’s sensible, here-and-now vision well.
