Ephemera

Check out more from the collection below.

Fashion

Mr. Saturday Presents the Golden Era of Paris Nightlife

January 23, 2023

Forever inspired by cultural ephemera and motifs, especially those relating to nightlife, the young and beloved Joey Gollish, designer of Mr. Saturday, brought us one of his brightest collections yet for Fall/Winter '23. Looking at the literal streets where he would present the collection, Gollish found inspiration in Paris' legendary nightclub Les Bain Douches. Giving us a show and a history lesson, the designer focused on the impact the club had on the 1970's and '80s as a landmark where one might experience a surprise performance by Prince or discover the dark sounds of a still unknown Depeche Mode. It was a hub for experimentation, liberation, freedom both creatively and sexually — and through the fluid, unstructured silhouettes and textures ranging from smooth leather to parachute nylon, Mr. Saturday saw the same vision through apparel.

Text by Anna Zanes
Creative Direction by Joey Gollish
Styling by Caitlan Hickey
Photos by Nelson Huang

Fashion

Junya Watanabe Masters Utilitarian Style

January 20, 2023

Junya Watanabe is going back to black for his collab-filled Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Specializing in deconstruction and reconstruction, Watanabe fused chic suits and outerwear with futuristic brand Innerraum's utility and protective gear similar to that of motorsports.

With a combination of new pieces and reproduced archives, Watanabe collaborated with 18 brands to produce his signature monozukuri creations; the act of manufacturing using Japanese practices.

Watanabe has moved in a different direction since his Spring-Summer 2023 collection. What started off the year with vibrant colors, Fall/Winter 2023 portrays a monochromatic motif. The objective of this season is to make functionality, comfort and modernity accessible all in one look.

Text by Marisa Kalil-Barrino
Photo courtesy of Junya Watanabe

Although there is no designated theme, Watanabe also includes helmets, knee pads, elbow pads and tech accessories to tailored blazers, fitted and relaxed pants and puffer coats.

The long list of collaborators for Junya Watanabe Man Fall-Winter 2023 include North Face, Oakley, Carhartt, New Balance, Timberland, Stepny Workers Club, Palace, Champion, Brooks Brothers, Mystery Ranch, Levi's, Haglof's, Karrimor, Nanga, Bates and Alpha Industries.

Fashion

Into the Future with Walter van Beirendonck

January 20, 2023

While I famously hate the phrase "world-building", if anyone were capable of erasing its inherent corniness, I'd have to let Walter Van Beirenconck take the win. Each season we've been swept out of the stifling Fashion Week showrooms and into a controlled fantasy full of frustration, eccentricity, inspiration and manic energy that is nothing if not purely punk. And this week for the Fall/Winter 23 season, he did it again.

Politically overt, whimsical, avant garde as ever, WVB once again wowed us with his Paris presentation, an ode to the year 3057, with a message for us here in 2023. With “WE NEED NEW EYES TO SEE THE FUTURE,” as its core sentiment, the designer, no stranger to provocative presentations which focus on the designs themselves, and need no extra sense of showmanship.

This collection broke down WVB's future-forward thesis both literally, with the soundtrack built around Bowie's space anthem "Five Years" and graphic slogans “Save the Future,” “No War,” and “Peace,” incorporated into the attire. But true to form, WVB showed us he's not simply here to "understand the assignment".

Text by Anna Zanes
Photos by Alex Soroka

In taking his 3000's theme a step futher, he entered the realm of abstraction, brilliantly sidestepping the rule book on traditional references. Shapes and structures stood on their heads that day in Paris, propelled into a time warp by way of alien-like balaclavas, suiting featuring eerily elegant skeletal structuring and tactile bubble-wrap chore coats.

office got the chance to check out the scene backstage.