Helmut Lang A/W '20

February 11, 2020

With Thomas Cawson at the helm, Helmut Lang’s A/W ’20 collection was shown in a series of photographs of the brand’s muses and friends, hung on the walls of its Christopher Street storefront, in a move that nodded to the brand's devotion to cultivating community among artists.

The display was steeped in authentic queer representation––from the concept, harkening back to 1970’s Greenwich Village, to the subjects, a natural blend of legendary LGBTQ tastemakers––including the likes of Interview Creative Director Mel Ottenberg––alongside fresh faces.

Beside the new season’s photos are Sunil Gupta’s black and white shots of the Christopher Street crowd from 1976. Cawson tapped Gupta to return to the Village stretch he cruised through with his camera in-hand all those years ago to shoot this season’s lookbook.

Text by Louise Delaney
Photos by Sunil Gupta, courtesy of Helmut Lang

And while it’s always hard not to romanticize images of NYC’s past lives, Gupta managed to capture a series of photos that fits in shockingly well with those of his nearly 50 years old––which left me dreaming of a smart A/W '20 blazer of my own for some modern-day downtown cruising.

Were his re-creations not in color, it'd be difficult to tell the difference between the photos from 1976 and now. (Helmut Lang’s timeless minimalist suiting, lust for denim and cool-girl formalwear probably has something to do with it, too.)

Check out the A/W ’20 collection, below; and see Sunil Gupta's photos, from 1976 and today, at Helmut Lang's Christopher Street storefront, through Feb. 14th.

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