Everything about Nigo’s Spring/Summer 2023 Kenzo collection felt like the first day of school. The clothes were pristine and cherub-like in their offerings. Even at their most refined and cordial, like the green and maroon pinstripe suits, it felt like a parent with incredible taste had their best day of the summer styling their child for their first day. Sailor hats, long tube socks, checkers, and lunchbox style purses. And even the more done-up, sophisticated looks had the feeling of a young, new teacher who is just as nervous as the kids for their first day so they showed up in style to get started on the right foot. No one look felt anywhere close to another, save for the varied color ways, and it emanated a feeling of readiness not only to learn but also to make a new friend off of the whimsy that the clothes are loudly and gleefully emanating. They say, “I loved the freedom and play of summer, but I’m happy to be here again to learn with you.”
I am ecstatic about Nigo-san’s direction with Kenzo, and the audience, which had the energy of a mid-after prep-rally, couldn’t have been more in line. Even the accompanying afterparty of the show featured its own callbacks to a treat day at school. Fried vegetables in the shape of octopi, fried chicken wings with jam that gave them the look of lollypops, and bright red cotton candy that turned everyone’s mouths a lovely shade of red. And, of course, everyone, celebrities and press included, fell into little cliques, shyly integrating throughout the sunny Paris day as we all were very happy to be outside. Nigo-san himself joined us on the blacktop, like our headmaster, to take photos with a smile and at some points wander around, observing the young, bright crowd that have come together in celebration of his clothes and their teachings on the joys of being together.
I can’t wait to see how Nigo-san decides to dress us next season.
