Helmut Lang 'Under Construction'

September 07, 2018

For her first role as Helmut Lang's newest Editor-in-Residence, V Magazine founder and former W features director Alix Browne has taken us back to basics. The brand, whose previous Editor-in-Residence was Dazed's Isabella Burley, has launched an all new denim collection that pays homage to its minimalist roots, proving, yet again, that less truly is more—especially when it comes to denim. Dropping this October, ‘Under Construction’ reimagines classic jean styles, like the straight-leg and the bootcut, into deconstructed versions of their original form.

And with all the looks embracing the natural flaws of their material, these closet staples celebrate the perfectly imperfect aspects of the world’s most iconic fabric. Like the name of the capsule suggests, Helmut Lang’s ‘Under Construction’ will be the perfect kind of understated demin-ware that seamlessly enhances any look.

View our favorites from the collection, below.

Text by Kennedy Fairfax

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Avavav's SS27 collection sees creative director Beate Skonare Karlsson exploring fashion as objects, treating garments as pieces of sculpture. Rather than submitting to the constant cycle of reinvention that comes with following trends, this collection has the brand's core identity developing more meaningfully and slowly.

"I think of it as almost building a family. I'm not interested in erasing everything and starting over every six months," said Karlsson. "I want to find forms that feel like they belong to us, then let them evolve and introduce new ones around them. Over time, they start to build a world of their own."

The collection features a muted tonal colour palette, which is broken up by bright red colour-blocked pieces. Unconventional structures become the pleated canvas for these colours. One particular silhouette, an almost chandelabra-like silhouette, became a central motif, being placed in juxtaposition to heavily textured knitted and woven materials.

Text by JohnOswald Crichton
Photos courtesy of Avavav

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The Store Show, Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, debuted on Friday in Milan with a star-studded audience, showcasing creative director Demna's personal vision for Gucci. The show features sharp shoulders and fitted silhouettes, colorful smoky eyes, and horse girl chic with ever-rebellious aristocratic undertones.

Demna became creative director of Gucci in 2025, coming off a ten-year stint at Balenciaga. His first collection with Gucci, La Famiglia, was defined by extravagant gowns, skimpy and sequined mini-dresses, huge fur coats, and a respect for the masculine-feminine. With The Store Show, he surrenders to androgyny and blurs the lines between high fashion and pop culture. A case study on bourgeois style highlighted with a certain sexuality that bridges the gap between the respective men's and women’s collections.

Demna takes us back to Gucci’s roots— a humble beginning at Savoy Hotel in London–with his own personal refinement 100 years later. His fusion of style in this collection is not coincidental. After a year at Gucci, researching and understanding what it is exactly that the House stands for, he promises a space that he envisions is true to Gucci. A space of endless inspiration, assured possibility, and unlikely connection.