Heron Preston on sustainability, workwear, and showing on Inauguration Day

January 24, 2017

On Friday, January 20th, Heron Preston delivered his first solo presentation at Paris Men's Fashion Week. The collection served as further proof that streetwear might now be the most defining force in menswear. His work is clearly more relevant than ever.

Preston, whose label falls under the umbrella group that also owns Off-White and Palm Angels, showed bombers, hoodies, and utilitarian pants directly inspired by workwear silhouettes (his last collection was a collaboration with the New York Department of Sanitation). The garments were produced in Italy with a sustainable bent, a cause Preston was eager to highlight on Inauguration Day. The clothes were definitely exciting and young (case in point: the show was shut down by the police), and you're sure to see them on all the Instagram famous kids. Read on for a Q&A with the designer.

Text by Jocelyn Silver
Photos by Nicolo Bagnati

Tell me about your inspiration for the collection.

For this collection, my inspiration was very personal on several levels. I wanted to incorporate my personal history and style – my name, my respect for nature and the environment, my love of making and wearing tees and hoodies – with a social commentary on the current state of fashion. I see this power struggle developing between the luxury brands and streetwear labels and I really wanted to put my own spin on it and develop this collection as a way of showing that there’s room for streetwear and workwear among the traditional fashion labels.

Could you tell me how this collection was sustainably produced? What steps do you take to limit your garments impact on the environment?

I don’t claim to be 100% sustainable, but it is important to me that the clothing I produce has minimal impact on the environment while also increasing eco-consciousness among the supporters of my brand and the kids who buy my designs. For this collection, I combined two approaches to ensure that what we were producing was as environmentally sound as possible. First, all of the new pieces were made by craftsmen in Italy with the intention of creating long lasting pieces that wouldn’t just fall apart after a few wears. I want to promote the production of apparel from quality fabrics that is made to last in an effort to reduce the global environmental impact from the fashion industry and hopefully encourage other designs to do the same. On the other side, with the pieces that stemmed from the DSNY collection, I use only recycled clothing and uniforms to continue the narrative I began when I debuted the collection with the Department of Sanitation.

Your clothes are made in Italy. Why then the choice to show in Paris?

I’ve honestly just always wanted to debut in Paris during Men’s Fashion Week and this year everything fell into place to make that possible. I had all my friends here showing their collections so we were all able to come out and support one another – it was my dream come true and I made it happen! But I hope to participate in fashion weeks worldwide in the future so keep your eyes on me for next season! –

Much of your work, especially including last season’s collaboration with DSNY, adapts labor uniforms for a fashion setting. What draws you to these silhouettes and themes?

I’m drawn to the themes of uniforms and workwear because they so closely mirror my own style and the style I’ve always been drawn to. I love seeing the way that the construction workers, sanitation employees, etc. who wear these mandated uniforms everyday because they are practical for their jobs still find a way to bring their own style and swag into what they wear.

You’re showing on Inauguration Day. Did that have an impact on the show?

While I didn’t plan the collection debut around Inauguration Day, I’m glad it worked out that way. During a time when our nation’s leaders are choosing to turn away from environmentalism, I want to use the platform I’ve been given- when the world’s eyes are on Fashion Week and what all the designers are up to - to continue pushing this issue and the dialogue around how we as consumers can think more critically about the practices we support in the fashion industry.

Check out more from Heron Preston here and here.

Fashion

Vans x Sterling Ruby Return with New Collection

December 03, 2024

Vans and artist Sterling Ruby are teaming up again for a bold second collection through OTW by Vans, launching on December 5, 2024. The seven-piece lineup includes footwear and apparel inspired by Ruby’s art, featuring deep green and gold tones, rotting jack-o-lantern graphics, and monster claw motifs.

The collection includes four shoe designs, such as the Old Skool 36 and Sk8-Hi 38, crafted with premium materials like goatskin and sustainable cotton. It also introduces apparel with striking graphics and a bold slogan: “ABSOLUTE CONTEMPT FOR TOTAL SERENITY.”

Punk band Mannequin Pussy stars in the campaign, photographed by Nayquan Shuler during a live performance. Prices range from $125 to $200 and will be available at otw.vans.com starting December 5.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of VANS OTW

Fashion

Timberland and Veneda Carter Reimagine Classics with Bold Metallics

November 23, 2024

Veneda Carter teams up with Timberland once again, bringing a fresh edge to archival designs in their latest capsule collection. Highlight pieces include towering lace-up boots in electric blue and silver, alongside a sleek reinvention of Timberland’s iconic 6-Inch boot, both crafted with patent leather and recycled materials.

The collection also introduces rugged, versatile outerwear like oversized parkas, utility vests, and a statement boiler suit, all built for layering and durability. Inspired by industrial design and early 2000s fashion, Carter infuses each piece with a contemporary energy that feels both striking and wearable.

The collection is now available and can be found at flagship Timberland stores, online, and select retailers worldwide..

By Enzo Holdt
Photography courtesy of Timberland

Fashion

ECCO.kollektive collaborates with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi

November 21, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has teamed up with Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for a bold and innovative Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Known for his thoughtful exploration of masculinity and storytelling in fashion, Nouchi brings his unique perspective to this collaboration, blending his modern aesthetic with ECCO’s skill in craftsmanship and material innovation.

The collection features a range of footwear, clothing, and accessories, each designed with attention to detail. The collection uses a mix of black, deep red, and pearl white. Sensual touches, like Nouchi’s signature slits, combine with structured tailoring and flowing shapes, showing how the designer blends bold and refined styles.

We spoke with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi about the collection and his inspiration. From the textures of the human body to his love for stretch leather, Nouchi shared how the collaboration allowed to experiment with new ideas.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of ECCO.kollektive x LGN

The collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week and draws inspiration from the textures of the human body. “The idea came from the textures of skin,” Nouchi explains. “I wanted to create something sensual and fluid, using leather in a way that felt both strong and soft. Leather has this amazing quality—it can feel like armor, but also like a second skin.”

Nouchi worked closely with ECCO to develop designs that showcase the versatility of their materials. High-shine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish appears in tailored separates like a single-breasted blazer, trousers, and long-line shorts. For a more experimental edge, he created a column dress and a pencil skirt using strips of leather embroidered onto stretchy tulle—a design he says was inspired by his younger self. “When I was young, I was obsessed with stretch leather because of designers like Jean-Claude Jitrois. It’s something I wanted to explore and bring into this collection, almost like fulfilling a dream for my past self.”

Footwear is another major highlight, featuring Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and the standout Truck Lace loafer with a bold platform. The shoe’s futuristic design draws from Nouchi’s fascination with brutalism and technology. “It might be a bit controversial,” he says, laughing, “but I really like the Tesla Cybertruck. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look combined with that raw, brutalist vibe—it’s something that resonates with me. The platform on the Truck Lace loafer feels like a nod to that kind of design.”

Another unique detail is the inclusion of removable coins on some of the shoes, adding a playful yet personal touch. “You can take the coins off—it becomes almost like a lucky charm,” Nouchi says. “It’s one of those small details that make the pieces feel more connected to the wearer.”

Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s signature slit motif, which adds subtle hints of reveal and concealment, runs throughout the collection. “The slit is about teasing the eye,” he explains. “It’s never about revealing too much—it’s about creating tension, a little mystery.” This motif appears on everything from loafers to hems, blending seamlessly with the collection's sensual yet structured aesthetic.

When asked about the versatility of his designs, Nouchi emphasizes their adaptability to different occasions. “You can wear these pieces in super casual situations on the street, looking super chic at night—super sexy,” he says. “From one garment, you can style it in so many ways during the day. For example, the tank top—you can wear it with pants, or without. It’s super hot, super cool, and it works for so many moments.”

For Nouchi, the collaboration with ECCO was as much about innovation as it was about creative freedom. “There are no limits with ECCO,” he says. “As a designer obsessed with materials, having the freedom to push development this far was an amazing opportunity. Fashion, for me, is like a laboratory. It’s about testing ideas and seeing how far we can take them.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available now, combining high-quality craftsmanship with bold, modern design that showcases Nouchi’s vision and ECCO’s craftsmanship.