I Wanna Be A Fencesitter

Across 40 looks, Vaccarello explores restraint as seduction and the luxury of absence. The collection nods to figures who made restraint a virtue and omission a form of expression: Marguerite Duras, whose writing found meaning in what remained unsaid; Tina Chow, whose legendary style embraced reduction rather than excess; and the fictional Mr. Ripley, whose outward composure concealed a far more complicated interior life. These figures not only represent a devotion to reductivism, but their styles are rooted in fundamental simplicity.

Summer 2027 Men’s is not simply a rejection of stylistic maximalism. It is a rejection of our need to always know, always speak, always see. We have forgotten the pleasure of the unknown, the unseen and the unspoken.

This idea extends into the presentation itself. Models move through Fujiko Nakaya's Cloud #07156, but approach the fog with a choreographed performance. Emerging, disappearing and reappearing within a luminous landscape of mist, they become part of the work itself. Rather than lost in the haze, they confidently stroll through it. The installation is not a backdrop. It is an active participant in the collection’s narrative—another expression of absence, presence and desire.