Jacquemus S/S '19

But because you can't create the season's most coveted—and talked about—accessory without ruffling a few feathers, and more importantly, catching the attention of fashion's most notorious critics, Diet Prada, the straw hat became something bigger; something else.

What that was, I'm still not exactly sure. But there was #TEAMJACQUEMUS and #TEAMEVERYBODYELSE fighting via Instagram about who invented giant straw hats. Was it Jacquemus? Was it Mexican brand Olmos & Flores? Was it neither? Jacquemus, for his part, said it was definitely not him, and proceeded to share the hats that inspired his own iteration, from designer John Miranda's 2003 presentation at Colombia Fashion Week, to Dior S/S '92.

For his Spring '19 collection, however, the Parisian designer decided to step away from the hat while still nodding at his haters, by debuting this year's pièce de résistance: the oversize straw bag.

The rest of the collection was equally strong—as Jacquemus called it, "a fantasy of the Italian Riviera." That meant bikinis, sheer dresses and lots of bohemian knits.

As always, the label's shoes were on point, as was the range's color palette. Jacquemus married crisp whites with pastel blue, green and biege, then mixed the whole thing up with bright fuschia and yellow. There were also tons of earth tones, like the last few seasons, and lots of sexy tops and dresses.

That's probably what he does best—well, besides starting internet drama, of course. Jacquemus has an innate understanding of how to elevate and celebrate the female body without ever making his looks feel over-sexxed or tacky. The Jacquemus woman is in charge of her sexuality; she's empowered; and she knows how to rock a midi-dress. The only thing she was missing, before this season, was the perfect beach bag.

View this season's must-have accessory, along with more behind-the-scenes moments, below.