Jelly for Marshall Columbia x Melissa

September 12, 2024

"I remembered the clear Melissa jelly shoes my sister Bea used to wear as a kid," New York-based designer Marshall Columbia recalls while discussing his latest collaboration with the iconic footwear brand. "They fit so seamlessly into the little world I’m creating with my own brand," he adds, "which is basically a glamorized, cartoon version of my childhood memories."

While that sense of late '90s, summery nostalgia was a key inspiration, Columbia’s reinterpretation of Melissa’s jelly shoe brings a hotter, more playful silhouette that can be dressed up or down. Reflecting on the shoe’s 2-in-1 design, Columbia shares, "The fact that this boot can also be transformed into a completely different shoe is the most exciting part, making it one of the most versatile shoes I’ve ever seen."

But for Columbia, the project was more than just a creative outlet. "Creating this campaign was one of the most special moments in my career," he reflects. "It was amazing to look around the room on the day of the shoot and see only friends and chosen family — people who’ve been incredible creative collaborators over the years. Even one of my closest friends, Bapari, produced original tracks for the campaign. These are the moments that make having a brand worth it."

Preview the colorways below. Shop the collab at marshallcolumbia.com.

Credits

Photographer: Neva

Creative Director: Marshall Columbia

Photo Assistant: Isobel Rae, Nuvany

Digitech: Jacob New York

Videographer: Joaquin Castill

Stylist: Quinn Lowsky

Styling Assistant: Jenny Wang

Producer: Chloe Young

Production Coordinator: Jeanine Deliz

Production Assistant: Matt Ramos

Makeup: Julian Wolfstoller

Makeup Assistant: Nikki Ciocari

Hair: John Novotny

Hair Assistant: Diana Braidz

Nails: Speakeasy Nails

Talent: Lingbo L., Willa Devereux, Mika Nobles, Not Even Flexin

Fashion

BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN SS24

Still, for all the delightfulness of Baum und Pferdgarten’s detail (like the sleeveless toppers built on flowery textiles), it’s Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten’s references that put a really big tongue firmly placed in cheek. Titled “A Postcard from Copenhagen,” this season explores the city through the eyes of a tourist. An unusual vision for a label that’s been around since the ‘90s, but with its lovely charm and blithe spirit, it has a point.

Innocent yet gently conceived, the designers’ love for deliberately feminine clothes runs directly to the prevailing spectrum of Scandi offerings through a sporty, wearable sensitivity that has, as it turns out, chosen to champion local communities and tradition in this season’s presentation. “Every summer hoards of tourists descend on the city, filling the streets and joining the people of the city in celebrating the sun and reveling in the beauty of such an iconic place,” read the notes. Exactly right. “Maritime life is still inherent and used by Copenhageners: in the winter they jump into the water before running to the sauna, while in the summer they gather at the harbor baths, soaking in the Nordic sun and taking a dip to cool off.”

So, how did the clothes turn out? There were breton stripes, denim sailor hats, striped knit bags and a plethora of deep navy and crisp white. From there in, Hestehave and Baumgarten’s transpositions got just a little wilder — twirling emblems adorned the Queen’s guards uniforms, while Japanese cherry blossoms that bloom at the King’s Garden were fused into prints across the collection; what’s more, crisp cotton patterned with a new brand monogram and quilted textiles were decorated with rich pink florals. A hard sell, for some. But happily for Hestehave and Baumgarten, the Danish market is one of the few that is still bouncing along as if nothing too commercial is entrenching its creative vein. So kudos to them for the focus.

Fashion

MUNTHE SS24

There was a genuine wit to the artsy stuff here, but it served to level-up the atmosphere of Abstraction. “In this collection, we weave a tapestry of rich elements: textiles, art prints, styles, and palettes,” pointed out the designer, explaining that “much like an art exhibition, where each piece, self-assured, flourishes alone while flourishing even brighter within the collective. Creating a unique experience was a driving force behind the Spring 2024 collection; For me, it is an endeavor to stretch the limits of the mind, igniting inspiration that knows no boundaries.” Speaking of references, the label has greatly ticked along this season, avoiding the peaks and troughs that other lines experience. Spring saw a partnership with New York-based artist Heather J. Chontos and London- based artist Aline Gaiad, conceived through vibrant motifs on styles like soft dresses, blouses and feminine skirts.

Munthe specializes in clothing with a quirky vibe and a commercial appeal. It was all breezy, but far from sloppy: sumptuous woven fabrics, resplendent sequins, patchwork denim and vivid patterns worked well, as did intricate jacquard patterns.

There are lots of prickly questions to ponder when it comes to the calibration of fashion and art; without real thought, one risks running into sour crassness. This season, however, these looks didn’t veer in the direction of naive-land. Au contraire: MUNTHE’s artfully articulated, ethically-minded aesthetic continues offering a promising act.

Fashion

Classic, Feminine and Finely-Sculpted Allure: REMAIN SS24

August 09, 2023

In Denmark’s circle, REMAIN has built a reputation as a reliable purveyor of classic yet eye-catching feminine independence, serving-up a dollop of characteristic poise to Spring 2024. It came partly from mixes of subtle complexity, like the earth-tinged, cinched waistlines teamed with boxy accessories and noir heels, or the dusky offerings that morphed key staples in sculpted, elongated forms. But there’s more to the story.

The collection’s theme was the established ideas of tailoring both “observed and reworked,” championing the likes of masculine shapes and, in turn, sculpting them into a wardrobe that holds a potent throughline in the womenswear front. For some, such a category might initially seem a been-there-done-that affair. In Copenhagen, however, the minimalist equivalent and stylistic nuances aren’t defined as such. So, really, what we’re addressing here is a Danish conceit parsed with contemporary flair.

Text by Chidozie Obasi
Photos courtesy of REMAIN

And in fact, this is not the first time REMAIN has felt the urge to strip things back. But leave the reinvention of classics to a Scandi vision who always puts the polish at the forefront of the edgy. Still, you could sense that edge was gaining ground in this season’s proposal of femininity, spanning across dynamic leather pieces, gauzy transparent knits, to the delicate shirting and flowing sheer hand-embellished skirts — to wit, they were intensifying the effect of each item through the power of contrasts. Sculptural silhouettes in audacious cuts felt more rebellious than the subtle, neutral color pairings and volumes here, accentuated by in-built boning, fitted and ruched waist details, and chunky belts.

Retailers will gravitate towards coated denim and diaphanous blouses, which could blend easily into just about any wardrobe — ensuring that even the simplest of offerings never end up feeling too drafty.