Jester Bulnes' BARRAGÁN Diary

Victor Barragán transformed AIFA airport into a sort of cultural purgatory. Obviously, the collection's moniker, "Quiet Luxury!", was a cheeky pass at the resurgent fashion movement centered on 'anti-bling', but Barragán's designs, in all their ostentatious glory, were anything but quiet. Models slinked down a motionless travelator, clad in looks that seemed like a jumble of conflicting references. Bullet wounds, bloody slashes, flashy camo-wear, national flag-pastiches, guerrilla-esque patrol hats, among other symbolic artifacts resonated loudly. Paradoxically, the collection felt timeless, fixed in a liminal space neither here or there. The eclectic references jumbled together naturally blended into what we’ve come to understand as the soul of BARRAGÁN.

Photographer Jester Bulnes, who walked the show, filled us in from their POV.

Read their diary below.

Last year I attended my first New York Fashion Week purely for the sake of the FOMO I would feel. This year amidst Paris Fashion week I was invited to not only attend, but walk my first runway for Barragán SS24, a designer I have not only admired for years, but have fantasized about working with, in Mexico City.

Sept 26

Immediately off the plane to my fitting, it was the day before the show. Right as I walked in, I was greeted by friends calming my nerves and to my surprise I saw Jordan Firstman, another familiar face, receiving a haircut and having his beard trimmed into the most swaggy striped pattern. Without having even seen any of the clothes, I knew that that show was going to be everything.

Sept 27

9:21 AM

Day of the show. I have been dreaming of this day my entire life. I met up with my friends Sevyn and Julian for coffee as we all head together to the bus that would be taking all of the models to the runway location: AIFA Airport.

Nothing but tattoos, muscles, and sweet personalities fill the long ride as everyone who would be a part of the show is more than the typical model and rather embodies the ethos of the brand.

12:30 AM

We arrived. Cracking jokes and in awe at the ability to present such a collection in the middle of an airport, we all make it through security.

1:06 PM

Models begin receiving bullets to their foreheads, extra hairy sideburns, and scars on their bodies.

3:34 PM

It's finally time to practice the initial walkthrough. Strutting down a moving walkway and weaving through airport chairs, the walk feels a bit confusing. After a few tries and a dose of confidence, I had it down.

5:01PM

Collectively deciding to get dressed as hair and makeup had just finished up, we bantered that we would need a full hour of having our photos taken as the show was set to begin at 6PM.

5:55 PM

Chains. Crowns. Crucifix rosaries. It all blurs by as everyone backstage is working hard to have everything ready for the show.

6:12 PM

The show had already begun and it was about to be my turn to walk. I taked a deeo breath and think about the young kid taking selfportraits in the infamous gay Barragán speedo. I was ready.

6:27 PM

It's time for the final walk and blasting through the speakers is Slowdive’s “Souvlaki Space Station.” This moment could not feel anymore magical. I will never forget this moment.

Gracias Victor, a todos.

BARRAGÁN Worldwide, BARRAGÁN Forever. <3

Fashion

ECCO.kollektive collaborates with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi

November 21, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has teamed up with Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for a bold and innovative Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Known for his thoughtful exploration of masculinity and storytelling in fashion, Nouchi brings his unique perspective to this collaboration, blending his modern aesthetic with ECCO’s skill in craftsmanship and material innovation.

The collection features a range of footwear, clothing, and accessories, each designed with attention to detail. The collection uses a mix of black, deep red, and pearl white. Sensual touches, like Nouchi’s signature slits, combine with structured tailoring and flowing shapes, showing how the designer blends bold and refined styles.

We spoke with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi about the collection and his inspiration. From the textures of the human body to his love for stretch leather, Nouchi shared how the collaboration allowed to experiment with new ideas.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of ECCO.kollektive x LGN

The collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week and draws inspiration from the textures of the human body. “The idea came from the textures of skin,” Nouchi explains. “I wanted to create something sensual and fluid, using leather in a way that felt both strong and soft. Leather has this amazing quality—it can feel like armor, but also like a second skin.”

Nouchi worked closely with ECCO to develop designs that showcase the versatility of their materials. High-shine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish appears in tailored separates like a single-breasted blazer, trousers, and long-line shorts. For a more experimental edge, he created a column dress and a pencil skirt using strips of leather embroidered onto stretchy tulle—a design he says was inspired by his younger self. “When I was young, I was obsessed with stretch leather because of designers like Jean-Claude Jitrois. It’s something I wanted to explore and bring into this collection, almost like fulfilling a dream for my past self.”

Footwear is another major highlight, featuring Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and the standout Truck Lace loafer with a bold platform. The shoe’s futuristic design draws from Nouchi’s fascination with brutalism and technology. “It might be a bit controversial,” he says, laughing, “but I really like the Tesla Cybertruck. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look combined with that raw, brutalist vibe—it’s something that resonates with me. The platform on the Truck Lace loafer feels like a nod to that kind of design.”

Another unique detail is the inclusion of removable coins on some of the shoes, adding a playful yet personal touch. “You can take the coins off—it becomes almost like a lucky charm,” Nouchi says. “It’s one of those small details that make the pieces feel more connected to the wearer.”

Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s signature slit motif, which adds subtle hints of reveal and concealment, runs throughout the collection. “The slit is about teasing the eye,” he explains. “It’s never about revealing too much—it’s about creating tension, a little mystery.” This motif appears on everything from loafers to hems, blending seamlessly with the collection's sensual yet structured aesthetic.

When asked about the versatility of his designs, Nouchi emphasizes their adaptability to different occasions. “You can wear these pieces in super casual situations on the street, looking super chic at night—super sexy,” he says. “From one garment, you can style it in so many ways during the day. For example, the tank top—you can wear it with pants, or without. It’s super hot, super cool, and it works for so many moments.”

For Nouchi, the collaboration with ECCO was as much about innovation as it was about creative freedom. “There are no limits with ECCO,” he says. “As a designer obsessed with materials, having the freedom to push development this far was an amazing opportunity. Fashion, for me, is like a laboratory. It’s about testing ideas and seeing how far we can take them.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available now, combining high-quality craftsmanship with bold, modern design that showcases Nouchi’s vision and ECCO’s craftsmanship.

Fashion

A New Lee® and Alpha Industries Collaboration Takes Flight

Fashion

Escaping the Glass Cage

November 19, 2024

For years, she stood still, watching life rush past her, a quiet observer behind the glass. Now, the glass is broken, and she steps out into the unknown. She walks through the city, caught between two worlds—part of it, yet apart from it.

Her journey is quiet but bold, searching for something she’s never understood, something just out of reach. On church steps and under glowing city lights, she questions everything: the rules, the past, and where she truly belongs. Each step feels both freeing and uncertain.

A curious soul in a borrowed life, she keeps moving forward, leaving behind only whispers of her escape, like a fleeting shadow in the night.