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Fashion

Gucci Past, Present, and Future: F/W 2024 Menswear

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Fashion

Laura Andraschko SS25

June 12, 2024

At London Fashion Week earlier this week, creative director Laura Andraschko unveiled her latest collection, an overtly political presentation, featuring on-the-nose critiques of the UK upper class’ culture and attitudes.

Andraschko, whose work is typically hedonistic in nature, has taken a left turn for the SS25 collection. The excess and ignorance of the often conservative upper class woman is mocked mercilessly. Faux country club pieces are embroidered with phrases like “Entitled Cunt”, offering unabashed, humorous criticism of elites in line with the trend found in recent films The Menu and Triangle of Sadness.

To frame her theatrical show of ridicule, Andraschko chose horse stables in West London as her location, a perfect encapsulation of the bullshit behind the shiny artifice of the lifestyle Britain's elites have chosen for themselves. The designer isn’t portraying herself as a hater through-and-through, though, as elements of the collection display a deep seeded love for aspects of British culture and fashion. Equestrian wear is included, along with pieces invoking UK country club’s and upper class business wear.

Some pieces evoke the well-known Bullingdon Club, which counts Prime Ministers such as notorious right-wing buffoon Boris Johnson and conservative clown David Cameron as it’s former members. Although the collection s a scathing critique of the rich, it’s also tinged with hope, paving an absurd path forward in the arts, a much needed reprieve in a time of ever-increasing inequality.