Kiko Kostadinov's Optical Allusions

October 05, 2023

Tactile meets sensual, sensitive greets speed, heels are crumbled up in a far off corner because the Kiko girl has somewhere to get to — with a feverishly flowy silk trail sweeping behind her. Laura and Deanna Fanning’s SS24 collection ticks every box we aspire for femininity to be. Designed by women, dressed by women. It’s not always necessary to make the distinction, so let’s leave it at that, for now.

This season served as an extended successor to the early established Kostadinov vocabulary, in constant and consistent dialog with menswear no less. The three Central Saint Martins’ alumnus speak the same language, constructing the same codes and equipping their audience with the right tools to pick from whatever rack they desire.

Viscose mixed with silk draped across and around the figure, short textured skirts contrasted technical trousers – curved through the use of asymmetrically rising buttons. Striped jerseys and crinkled knits confronted the eye through optical illusions – Fanning's cut-out techniques furthering these joyful allusions.

Text by Vilda Krog
Photos by Mathilde Favel

Light layers of knitwear and patchwork acted as a glue throughout the collection, a thematic element inspired by women artists Sonia Delaunay and Sonia Rykeil. The lineup was embellished with crossbody bags, chain necklaces and poetic glass marble collars – an infusion embodying the spirit of innovation, much like the twins do.

The ongoing evolution of Kiko Kostadinov feels playful yet mature. It’s inspiring to see such a young brand – the sisters have shown in Paris since 2019, but this was their debut on the official schedule – that emphasizes craftsmanship and clothing, rather than the conceptualization of disconnected references. The clothes are designed not only to be worn, but to be lived in.

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