Kim Shui Fall/Winter 2022

office had the opportunity to attend the show first-hand and see up close the hard work and labor of love that was poured into this collection. Prior to the show, office sat down with Kim to discuss variables of the show, how she prepared for it, and how this collection differs (or brings us back, rather) from previous collections. Kim Shui continuously proves herself as a designer that not only creates every season’s most sought-after garments but represents a voice of her community in making representation a focal point.

Continue reading for an exclusive interview and a look at the collection below.

How have these past few days leading up to the show been for you?

It's been calmer than usual. I think we're just getting more and more organized and just kind of getting used to how we work during COVID times.

It's good to know that it's going easier for you guys this time around.

I think this is way more efficient, way more organized. I also think we've always been very DIY and scrappy with all these different things, but I think we're getting everything done a lot more ahead of time. So it feels like we got this and it's not anything too insane anymore.

Just talking about the whole process, for your show, I feel you notoriously push those boundaries of who you typically cast for your runway shows. Even today, brands have such a narrow vision of who can walk in a show, but I feel like you push those boundaries and have that diversity. So in your own words, how would you describe the Kim Shui girl?

I just think there's no limit and it's almost like there's no specific type. Obviously I think she's very confident, she's bold. We love it when the girl can walk well, or if she has an awkward walk and it's so awkward that it's cool. Like then that's great as well. So yeah, I think that's just like people who have personality and I think we also really try to cast people that we think are nice people.

That's great.

Just people that are kind and cool, you know, like they have good energy. I think that's the most important thing.

It was mentioned that there's the duality of showing bare skin and how it relates to a redefined definition of yourself. So what would this new definition sort of be like for you in terms of the way that your show is going this season compared to past ones?

So I feel like we started with a lot of showing a lot of skin and then this season, there is an element of showing skin, but there are also looks where it's more covered and it's still very flirty and sexy, but doesn't mean like there's like a lot of skin showing to them. I think it was a lot about how I started. It was me thinking about the second season that we did and it was crazy because it was my first time doing it independently. We found this makeup studio inside Chelsea market on the second floor that was able to offer us the space. So, I was struggling to find a spot.

Then we were like, “Okay, well, this makeup studio is big enough to hold like 15, 20 people. Let's try to do it here.” We built this crazy fence with a barbed wire backdrop of this flat and then stuck flowers in it to try to make it look like it was not a makeup studio and to make the photos look good. But it was so DIY. We invited guests and they came in and no one could see the clothes because they were all clubbed into one corner and the AC broke. So everyone was sweating and I was really angry. Then the models were rotating. We had them stand there and rotate for like two hours.

It was so crazy. I feel like none of the looks were seen either. But it made me think like, “Okay, there are so many cute looks in there that we should have brought that joy a little bit more too because that also is how we started with a lot of outdoor pieces. Like, different textured fabrics, combining a lot of different contrasting materials. We're not just sexy dresses. So I think that was something that I wanted to bring back.

I feel like your dresses are super statement pieces that everyone tries to get their hands on. But it's really interesting to see sort of the dichotomy between the super sexy dresses versus the outdoor looks that you mentioned. I'm excited to see what that's gonna look like.

Yeah. I think there's kind of like a little lady element to it, which is funny. but yeah, It's like another girl, I would say it's flirty cool. It's nice to see both of them together and kind of how that plays within each other.

Oh, I'm looking forward to seeing it. In other shows too, I know the one that I saw in the fall, was kind of infused with playing off of Western tropes and mixing it with your Chinese heritage. Is this new collection sort of a continuation of that?

I mean, I think throughout the seasons I've had a limit that does fuse Chinese culture into it. Whether it's in larger doses or not, I think one of the previous seasons, it was multiple looks kind of reinvented. But there's always something, whether it's super obvious or not. There is always something that kind of continues in each season. I think that there isn't that Western cowboy element, I think this is more kind of just exploring the girl, in a different perspective. It still has the elements of our traditional motives kind of subverted in different ways. I think you'll see towards the end of the collection, some of those pieces and how that kind of translates throughout, but then there are also others where it's like, not every piece is combined where there's like an Asian Brocade and whatnot. I think there are some pieces in the full look, but there's a touch, but it's in slightly different ways.

That'll be fun to see how you're continuing to push the narrative and sort of further develop your voice as a designer. Kind of marking your stamp onto who you are and what your designs portray.

I think there’s an element there, but it's like in each season it's more or less. It might be heavier in different seasons. Sometimes it might be subtle in a way that you only see it through certain accessories. I do think each season we wanna try to develop things and to look at things differently and from a fresh perspective as well.

What is one thing that you want your audience to take away from this collection?

I think I just want my audience to be excited by these new fall-winter pieces and just to be reminded of a lot of those outerwear pieces that we started with. Because that was my first season that we did. That's what helped us start. I'm excited to see how you outdo yourself this time. Cuz I know the last time it was crazy, but I'm excited to see what you do this time. I think it'll be really fun. I'm excited. I like the looks and I think it's a fresh perspective because I think with each season sometimes if it's like so many sexy dresses, the girls wanna wear that, but I like seeing how else this can be kind of pushed.