London Fashion Week AW24
Erdem
Images courtesy of ERDEM
For Fall 24, Erdem looks to 1953 for a career-defining performance of Medea by Maria Callas, bringing forth a collection that explores the realm between myth and reality, on stage and off stage, dressed and undressed, person and persona, sorcery and seduction. Standouts included a cropped jacket with exploded square cut collar in black and white herringbone wool with selvedge fray detail, worn with hand-draped wrap skirt in herringbone wool with selvedge fray detail, alongside a Draped mid-length pencil dress with asymmetric cape sleeve in saffron Rossini Rose printed crushed organza cloqué.
JW Anderson
Images courtesy of JW Anderson
Jonathan Anderson’s outing for Fall 2024 continues its creative experimentation of taking the familiar into outlandish territory, bringing forth a collection of opposites: billowing shapes meets cocoon details, toying with the concept of neighbors and the playfulness that comes with the clothes one wears. The collection presented a delightful palette of vibrant hues juxtaposed with a duskier palette, which symbolizes Anderson’s study of contrasts.
16 Arlington
Images courtesy of 16 Arlington
In 16 Arlington’s Fall outing, the hallowed space of the art gallery is transformed into a show venue as the Barbican’s Curve is used for the first time in a runway context. Models appear in a beam of light through the shadows, dressed in black gowns and slippery optical illusion organza, skin-like croc and ostrich leather. Layering breaks new ground: There is a tension between the refined and untamed, the elegance of twill tailoring and fine rib knits, contrasted with the wildness of animalistic touches, with Lynchian chevron patterns forming panels in outwear.
Chet Lo
Images courtesy of Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo plays with the balance and scale of the brand's iconic spikes. Models run across the hoodie's sleeves' sides, down the back's center, and along trousers and fishtail skirts in columns. A pair of felted wool sarong trousers with spikes along their exterior has a belt, marrying Lo's east meets west influences. Mid-length skirts and trousers have spikes that begin midway and amplify in size. Wool hybrid skirt trousers that nod to the armor's silhouettes and off-the-shoulder jumpers begin in spikes and then transform into ribbed knits that cling to the body.
KNWLS
Images courtesy of KNWLS
AW24 sees the KNWLS woman zero in on her innate severe elegance. Zip-fastened corset in full-grain sea green leather, complemented by low-slung, side-buckled skirt offer perhaps the most confidently restrained riff on the brand’s signature garment to date. With additional iterations in laced, delicately pinstripe denim intimating the punkish flair at the KNWLS protagonist’s heart. Funnel neck jackets, constructed to skim the waist, come in charcoal wool and stony denim. Elsewhere the muted finish informs the graphic markers of back-printed paneled stretch jersey separates.
Burberry
Images courtesy of Burberry
A celebration of creativity, grounded in elegant practicality and billowing staples: Burberry’s Fall outing is evolved through shape and fabric, evoking a feeling of warmth, protection and outdoorsy elegance. Inspired by the landscapes and people of the UK and Ireland and rooted in its premium take on coats production, Burberry trenches appear in moleskine alongside duffle coats and field jackets. Traditional craft and techniques from Donegal to Lochcarron inspire construction, fabric and detailing. “There’s a sense of craft in this collection,” said Lee. “We began in the Burberry archive and the mills of Lochcarron and Donegal. I wanted to take a traditional approach to the fabrics and how each piece is made. Craftsmanship has always been at the heart of design.”
