Looking Inward with Rastah

October 25, 2021

Pakistani brand Rastah was founded in 2018 by cousins Zain, Adnan, and Ismail Ahmad. The three envisioned a brand that would not only champion South Asian heritage but also that would inspire others to be the truest version of themselves. Through genderless pieces that exhibit traditional South Asian and Pakistani crafting methods, Rastah allows multi-hyphenate wearers’ personalities and identites to shine loudly and proudly.

Rastah’s latest limited edition “Volume VI” Collection aims to dismantle commonly believed stereotypes about what it means to be human, while also exploring the delicate balance between human emotions such as love and fear. The founders have labeled this iteration as their most intimate collection thus far, and they call on wearers to join them in that conveying of vulnerability.

Interview by Kayla Curtis-Evans
Photos Courtesy of Rastah

“Volume VI” includes an assortment of comfortable garments showcasing traditional hand-block printing and hand-woven recycled yarns. The collection launched October 17th, alongside an exclusive 3D NFT which will launch November 5th.

Read below for office’s full interview with Rastah’s co-founder and creative director, Zain Ahmad.

Rastah was founded by you and your cousins — when did you all decide you wanted to develop a streetwear label?

I graduated from the University of British Columbia and felt a disconnect with my surroundings in Vancouver. I knew there was more for me out there and fashion was a big interest. I had no formal education in the field, mind you. This is where I also saw a severe lack of representation for South Asians and Pakistanis in general within Western fashion markets. The connotations associated with these regions were always negative. On one of my trips back to Pakistan, I realized the potential of incorporating artisanship with streetwear and a contemporary design language. Nobody was doing it, and in fact, in the beginning, we were pretty much laughed off. Deep down I knew that we’d be paving way for a completely different segment of fashion in Pakistan and that’s exactly what’s happening now. Rastah has tons of imitators within Pakistan that only serve to solidify and validate everything that we’ve done so far. Ismail comes from a marketing background and back in 2018 when the idea was first conceived, I convinced him to join me in this venture. Adnan, having a strong business and finance-oriented background, joined us at the tail end of 2018 as well.

How does Rastah reinterpret South Asian heritage through the designs and collections you put out?

Each collection is strongly narrative-based. In the more recent collections, it has been focused on emotions and connecting with my inner self. These collections serve as a conversation piece with myself that I can then put out to the world in a safe way without having to disclose too much. The collections are actually designed with me writing out a few pages of how I feel and turning those pages into a story of sorts. Then comes the whole design process with the sketches and fabrication. I need to be able to feel what I feel and have it play out like a story. Heritage and artisanship serve as a medium for these conversations to take place. For example, we will sometimes use historical motifs and artisanal techniques, like block printing and hand weaving, in completely new ways. We recently made a jacket with a very contemporary silhouette using handwoven fabric that otherwise would only be used for throws and blankets, so a lot of stuff like that.

Why is it important to you to source and craft your pieces all in Pakistan?

Put simply, the world has a very bad image of “Made in Pakistan,” and we want to change that. We want “Made in Pakistan'' to stand just as tall. And being a Pakistani there’s a bit of nationalistic pride there as well. I feel like I owe it to my country, and more so to the craftsmen of this country, that deserve to be recognized.

What led to Rastah’s garments being genderless?

I've always felt clothing and fashion, in general, should be about having fun and expressing yourself. To me, playing within predetermined old-age rules just simply doesn’t make sense!

You’ve said that this collection is your most intimate so far, as it draws upon personal struggles with identity and relationships. How do you interpret your own identity and how does it translate into this collection?

The truth is that I haven't interpreted my own identity, and that's exactly what this collection is about — a sort of dance between love and fear, and what comes of it. The juxtaposition of the two, of sorts. What would that dance look like? How would it feel? This collection is not about answers; it's about asking the right questions, and being okay with imperfect answers.

What is the feeling you want this collection to evoke from the people wearing it?

A whole lot of self-reflection and a desire to look inward. I want people to understand why we do what we do — and to be okay with not having shit figured out. [I want people] to be okay with the person in the mirror at that very moment. Life’s an ever-changing process.

Can you tell me a bit more about the NFT that is launching along with this collection and where the will proceeds be donated?

The NFT is a digital art piece in collaboration with a Pakistan-based design studio called DMT Labs. It features a character wearing a piece of 1/1 Rastah clothing. Whoever wins the auction for the NFT also gets the 1/1 outfit and a portion of proceeds will go to artisans that work with Rastah.

What is your favorite piece from this collection and why?

Probably the recycled handwoven jacket. The colors depict a noise and the choice of yarn is textured as well. The idea was to create something that could exude feelings of layered complexity. The silk smocked top is also another favorite.

You’ve been labeled before as ‘the next generation of streetwear.’ Do you plan to continue creating in that lane in the future or will new collections delve into other types of fashion?

I actually am trying to move away from the streetwear label. That's what we were initially being described as by people so I decided to just run with it! However, if you really study the brand you can tell by the type of silhouettes we are creating that it's not just streetwear. Furthermore, as fashion continues to evolve, so do definitions of streetwear. Streetwear 20 years ago is very different from what it is now, and who knows what it will be 10 years from now! The intersection of luxury and streetwear is very interesting to me as well.

View photos from Rastah’s “Volume VI” collection below.

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Lennon Gallagher’s Future Heritage

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At London's The Dublin Castle, Lennon Gallagher’s band Automotion played a gig on the same stage once christened by The Killers, that birthed The Libertines. The pub’s indie-soaked history was the perfect match for the genuinity of the trio’s setlist — a nod to the bands who had found their "break" there decades prior.

The crowd, clad in blazers and button-downs, was packed with Lennon’s family and friends, celebrating the launch of Napapijri’s FW24 campaign with mixed drinks from the open bar and a cig on the Camden streets. Starring Lennon and his mother, Patsy, the campaign channeled '90s influences from padded puffers to elastic drawstrings. Scattered through the crowd, the styles nodded to silhouettes remembered through the lens of Napapijri’s classics.

After the show, office caught up with Lennon to discuss London winters, working with his mom, and family traditions in the Gallagher household.

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Photography by Lin You

Have you been to The Dublin Castle before?

I’ve actually been a few times. It’s an iconic pub, and they pour a good Guinness.

It's historic — I heard Amy Winehouse would occasionally pull a pint there. How did it feel to perform at the venue?

It felt great, especially because most of the people in the crowd were my mates coming to support. It’s also fun performing in an intimate venue like The Dublin Castle, makes it more special.

Do you have a favorite memory of going out in North London?

It’s hard to pin down just one, North London has the best pubs.

Yeah, now is the best time to be inside at the pub. How would you describe London winters?

Wet.

Tell me about your band, Automotion.

We’re currently on our European tour which has been a lot of fun. Our music video for our new single, "Inferno," has just been released and we have some cool stuff coming up too, but you’ll have to wait and see.

What artists are influencing you right now?

At the moment, I’d say Black Midi. I’ve always enjoyed their music, but now they’re on repeat with Duster.

You get that from your sound and style; what’s the best outfit to wear for a show?

Leather trench coat, always.

You've always been into fashion, and you recently got to model alongside your mom, Patsy, in Napapijri's new campaign. What did working with the brand mean to you and your family?

It was fun to see each other working in a professional setting, so I guess it gave us both an insight into a work perspective of each other's lives which we don’t normally get to see.

Is there a moment from the shoot that stood out to you?

Probably the shots were my mum and I had to look at each other with serious faces. Was hard not to laugh, but we managed to keep it together

Do you have a favorite piece from the "Future Heritage" collection?

I’d have to say the 1990 Anorak, it’s a classic.

What fashion traditions have persisted in your household?

I think it’s always about being comfortable in what you wear. It’s a cliche but I’d say comfort is key.