Lost Weekend

October 10, 2019

Honestly, it doesn't get much more DIY than this.

Berhard Willhelm's S/S '20 lookbook just dropped based on the idea of Readymades by Marcel DuChamp. If you aren't familiar, here's the rundown: These Readymades consisted of everyday objects such as a chair, or shovel. However, when joined, reposistioned, etc., the found object became art.

Here, in this collection, nothing is quite as it seems. In the words of Willhelm himself, "Our task was to work with charityshops like GOODWILL and OUT-OF-THE-CLOSET, looking far and wide in all areas of the city to buy the readymades. All of which were used as props in the lookbookshooting of the SS20 collection". By sourcing and structuring found materials, the designer fantasizes a collection as familiar as it is unique.

Text by Caroline Brown
Photos courtesy of Bernhard Willhelm

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Avavav's SS27 collection sees creative director Beate Skonare Karlsson exploring fashion as objects, treating garments as pieces of sculpture. Rather than submitting to the constant cycle of reinvention that comes with following trends, this collection has the brand's core identity developing more meaningfully and slowly.

"I think of it as almost building a family. I'm not interested in erasing everything and starting over every six months," said Karlsson. "I want to find forms that feel like they belong to us, then let them evolve and introduce new ones around them. Over time, they start to build a world of their own."

The collection features a muted tonal colour palette, which is broken up by bright red colour-blocked pieces. Unconventional structures become the pleated canvas for these colours. One particular silhouette, an almost chandelabra-like silhouette, became a central motif, being placed in juxtaposition to heavily textured knitted and woven materials.

Text by JohnOswald Crichton
Photos courtesy of Avavav

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Demna became creative director of Gucci in 2025, coming off a ten-year stint at Balenciaga. His first collection with Gucci, La Famiglia, was defined by extravagant gowns, skimpy and sequined mini-dresses, huge fur coats, and a respect for the masculine-feminine. With The Store Show, he surrenders to androgyny and blurs the lines between high fashion and pop culture. A case study on bourgeois style highlighted with a certain sexuality that bridges the gap between the respective men's and women’s collections.

Demna takes us back to Gucci’s roots— a humble beginning at Savoy Hotel in London–with his own personal refinement 100 years later. His fusion of style in this collection is not coincidental. After a year at Gucci, researching and understanding what it is exactly that the House stands for, he promises a space that he envisions is true to Gucci. A space of endless inspiration, assured possibility, and unlikely connection.