Luar SS24: A Show of Good Faith

September 14, 2023

After closing out last season and being named the Best Amercian Accessory Designer at the 2022 CFDA Awards, the expectations for Luar’s Raul Lopez were at an all time high. That said, it has become a well-established pattern for the designer to surpass himself with each successive collection. This season echoed last season's "street-but-elegant" range. However, Lopez always gives us a little extra. Apart from the garments, his ability to stage a show brings to mind the archaic videos scattered across the internet from the catwalk's prime.

This season, Lopez drew inspiration from a vivid memory of his past, one that etched a stark contrast between two facets of existence. The Spring/Summer ’24 line unraveled the complexities of redemption.

Text by Sahir Ahmed
Photos by Huy Luong

The memory takes us to the streets of El Hoyo, a region in the Dominican Republic, where life unfolds in dualities. On one side, a passionate preacher's sermon competes with the thunderous bass of tricked-out car speakers, underscoring the dichotomy of spiritual salvation and hedonistic pleasure. It's a scene that leaves us pondering the concept of salvation itself — who offers it, and from what do we seek deliverance?

For Lopez, SS24 was a precious journey back to that moment in El Hoyo, where he first experienced this revelation. The irony of the situation wasn't lost on him, as he recognized that his brand, like that street, resided at the intersection of duality.

The soundtrack of the moment, a song titled "Socorro" (meaning "help" in Spanish and also the name of his mother), introduced an additional layer to the narrative. Lopez contemplated how each side yearned to experience the other's reality — those on the left, yearning to let go, and those on the right, desiring a clean slate. Yet, the gravitational pull of their respective worlds remained undeniable.

This idea of being constantly "pulled back" resonates deeply with Lopez, who has navigated his journey in the fashion industry while staying grounded in his roots. The collection itself carried subtle yet profound symbolism, with robust collars hinting at the weight of personal burdens, crackled leather mirroring the walls of El Hoyo, and intricately buttoned long skirts challenging conventional notions of modesty. In Lopez's eyes, redemption isn't a grandiose event; it's embedded in the daily choices we make. The collection's underlying message suggests that the saviors we seek may not be external figures but the choices we embrace within ourselves.

As Luar's SS24 show closed out New York Fashion Week, it left audiences with a thought-provoking reflection on the intricacies of salvation and a reminder that redemption is often a personal journey, navigated within the consequences of our own choices.

Fashion

Téla D’Amore and Jordan Brand Launch a New Sneaker Collab

December 05, 2024

Starting off December on the right foot, Jordan Brand teamed up with cultural visionary Téla to create a fresh addition to its brand. As a co-founder of Who Decides War, Téla is constantly focused on finding innovative ways to blend luxury and streetwear. The Jordan Brand Flight Court x Téla pulls inspiration from skateboarding and basketball as well, resulting in a shoe meant for any occasion.

With its debut on December 5th, the collaboration is marked by its mix of Jumpman DNA and distressed elements. Who Decides War’s signature darning technique can be seen throughout the black, Off Noir, and Varsity Red shoe. You can even choose which logo to display while wearing them, enhancing the convergence of these two worlds.

By Abby Dillingham
Photos Courtesy of Jordan Brand

Fashion

office and Miista Join Forces for an Evening of Invigorating Conversation

December 05, 2024

On one of New York's rainiest fall nights, office and Miista paired up to bring together a variety of women paving their way in the creative industry. The guests drank wine and enjoyed a culinary experience orchestrated by Magdalena O'Neal, while a playlist curated by Lucy McFadin set the mood. Providing an escape from the storm raging outstide, Miista's store became a warm glimpse into the world of fashionable women and captivating conversation.

The conversation, led by office's Cassie Jekanoski, was centered around navigating today's creative industry while bringing hope and joy to the craft. Smiles were exchanged and laughs echoed the walls as the guests got real about their takes on creativity, collaboration, and individuality. Meanwhile, bright flames reflected on the Orchard Street storefront as the culinary team grilled outside.

Photos by Ava Perman

Perfection is the recipe for disaster for a lot of us. You will always fail in the pursuit of perfect... but the journey is fun. - Kevin Ponce

Everyone finds zen in their work in a different way. It's a really important part, having something in your work that feels good despite what else is going on. Once you put yourself into that state of flow, a lot comes out. -Martine Ali

A lot of the time we have narratives of people, what we think they are going to be like, or a certain perception of them. For them to blow away all of those things is incredibly cool. That's my main objective and the whole point of writing, to keep the narrative going, to keep cultural criticism going, to keep history going. - Kerane Marcellus

Kerane Marcellus, Kevin Ponce, and Magdalena O'Neil

Nicolaia Rips, Liv Solomon, and Cassie Jekanoski

Michelle Li, Kim Shui, Laura Pitcher, and Kevin Ponce

Maria Alia, Becky Akinyode, and Shay Johnson

Fashion

Manifestations of Jeff

December 05, 2024

Alter-egos manifest in different ways. Designer Moni Jiang’s Graduate Collection at Central Saint Martins dives deep into hers, a man named Jeff. Jeff doesn’t care, he’s resourceful, he fearlessly makes mistakes and looks good while doing it. He finds random clothing in his closet, accessories on the street, and somehow pulls it all together.

This exploration marks a significant moment in her journey as a designer and stylist. She blends streetwear culture and 1920’s opulence to bring us into Jeff’s world. Inspired by the memory of her grandfather, the collection is innovative in its use of materials. A corset constructed with 3,600 bobby pins and a puffer jacket covered with thousands of rhinestones simply makes sense in the universe she creates.

office sat down with the mastermind herself to talk all things Jeff.

Interview by @abbydillingham
Creative Direction @ferrrariboi
Styling @ferrrariboi
Photography @billiejstringer
HMU @at0_1ee
Models @temisaama @cakarefe
Assistants @halbutlerr @timsoliman

I'm really fascinated by how you brought this character to life, when did Jeff first appear to you?

It's kind of funny how this whole thing started. So I actually used to live in New York, years back. And one day, when I went thrift shopping, I found this worker's shirt, and it said Jeff on it. I think it was like someone's work shirt. And I thought that was super cool, so I bought it, and that sort of became my alter ego. And I kind of just started using that as my name for dating sites, all sorts of online shit. So it was very random.

I love that. Can you take me through a classic day in the life of Jeff? What is he doing? Where is he going? Who is he hanging out with?

I don't think there is a classic day in his life, because it's always different, like he's always doing things on a whim, you know. He just wakes up and he would do whatever the fuck he wants. It's all quite random. And I sort of like that. The fact that he doesn't stick to a routine, because I feel like that's how it's supposed to be for him, because he's not tied to anything. He's not confined, like he has no limits, so he kind of just, like, does everything and anything he wants, whenever, wherever.

Yeah, totally. And I read that a lot of the inspiration for Jeff came from your grandfather. How do you feel like Jeff embodies him?

Actually, initially, I feel like I didn't even see it. But as I was making the collection I sort of saw my grandpa's shadow within the collection. And I feel like it's because, like my grandfather himself, he used to be this super careless, fearless and free soul who never gave a fuck about what anyone else said. And he was always sort of in his own little bubble kind of thing. He had no friends, I think he didn't mind that. You know, that's just like part of his personality, he didn't care. So I think this collection was also sort of an attempt to revive his spirit through this alter ego that I've created.

For sure, I love that. I think especially when you're designing something, sometimes you don’t even see the inspiration until it's done. And it's really cool, because it's kind of subconscious.

You use a variety of materials, did you use any in the beginning that you thought would be a small detail that ended up being kind of central to the collection?

Yeah, actually, I think the first piece that I made for this collection was the hat. So that was kind of like, where the whole thing started. Because, like the hat, it kind of was a representation of repetitions. And I was like, oh so it's something that he keeps doing over and over again, like a mistake that he keeps making over and over again. This whole collection is basically Jeff's attempt to look posh or glamorous, but with things that he found. It's a bit like how as a kid, you would gel your hair back to look like you were older or wrap blankets around you to make a gown kind of thing. The whole thing is meant to be playful and really just random.

Yeah, especially like the childhood spirit of just working with whatever you have at home or in your parents closet and just making it happen.

Yeah, totally.

So you pulled some influence from streetwear culture and 1920s opulence. Does that era in particular inspire you at all? Would you say it inspires Jeff?

I think it's not about clothes from that era or details. It's mostly about the spirit and like, what people know that era as. It’s the glam and the lavish lifestyle.. And I think that's how Jeff is, that's how I want Jeff to be. He doesn't care about what other people think, he just wants to show off as much as he can. He just wants to put himself out there and be seen. Like he's just a walking spotlight.

Yes! I see that for him. It's kind of this balance between unconventional and conventional. And I guess my last question would be, how do you feel like, we all can be more like Jeff? How can we be inspired by him?

I think, really just go easy on yourself and allow yourself to make mistakes, because I feel like that's what I’ve struggled with for the longest time, because when I make things, I feel like I'm too much of a perfectionist, and I have a little bit of OCD when it comes to my work

Yeah, don't we all.

Yeah and, because of that, I've actually suffered a lot throughout my creative process over the years, because I can always do one thing 10 times just to make it perfect. But I feel like at the end of the day it's kind of pointless, because in the end, you're really just gonna see the overall image. And I think that's how it works with styling as well. Like, when I was working with other stylists, they didn't care that much about that one little fold in the skirt. You know, they care more about the overall image on the screen. And also, because, like on set, everything moves so fast, you can't just be fixated on one little detail. So, yeah just chill (laughs), like chillax.

Literally (laughs) just relax. I feel like everyone just needs to relax.

Yeah (laughs), everyone needs to chillax.