La Collectionneuse

February 27, 2019

There is an understated romanticism to a Jacquemus silhouette; elegant in its simplicity, bold in its innocence and brimming with sentimentality. While there was no shortage of these strengths displayed on the catwalk at his F/W '19 presentation, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus certainly shook things up a bit with a collection that demonstrated that what’s he’s been serving up the last few seasons aren’t the only ingredients he’s got in the kitchen.

With the concept of “La Collectionneuse” (aka "the collector”) as the aesthetic focal point of the collection, each look represented the coming together of three disparate fields of interest: modernist design, objects of personal value, and bold and expressive color. Construction and character were without a doubt the takeaway moments of the show, as silhouettes oscillated fluidly between the architectural and the playful, giving way to statement pieces such as an expertly crafted fuschia double-face wool trench, a silk gilet with oversized utility pockets, among others.

Text by Kennedy Fairfax
Photos by Clara Delaporte

And if the vibrant pops of pinks, blues, and oranges didn’t get you there, than the way in which the designer explored sensuality in the aesthetic realm surely did. The sensual slits and slips of sun-kissed skin that we’ve all come to love were reimagined with a more masculine energy, thus feminine pieces like pantsuits and skirt-and-sweater combos were infused with structural tailoring with a workwear edge. Sensuality has never looked so composed, and avant-garde has never been so wearable—this collection, in no small part, is a powerful representation of the evolving conceptions of the Jacquemus woman.

See some of our favorite looks from backstage, below.

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