Margiela S/S '19

September 27, 2018

When John Galliano began his preparation for his Margiela S/S '19 collection, he started thinking back to his time as a Central Saint Martins fashion student. After class, between all-nighters sewing garments, he and his friends would hit the clubs, where Soft Cell's "Tainted Love" was on-repeat. It was a time when, even though everyone was still trying to figure out who they were, they were unapologetically themselves.

"We were trying to make our own rules," he told Vogue. And that's exactly what Galliano still does.

"Being who you are is an act of defiance," said Teddy Quinlivan in the podcast/video that was projected around the room pre-show. As he's done for the last few seasons, Galliano has shared his creative process through podcasts; and with this season, and the launch of Margiela's first in-house signature fragrance, Mutiny, Galliano spent two episodes recalling the defiance of his own youth.

In the collection, that was seen through the visible cut-and-sew patterns on each garment––at once, reminiscent of the pattern-making classes he probably took all those years back at CSM; and the ways in which each garment disregarded all the rules.

With layered pieces and multi-functional details, each of the looks were both incomplete, yet also over-finished. Everything could be transformed and worn again in different ways. And the major accessory this season was a black felt top hat à la Erykah Badu.

As for the new fragrance, Mutiny was inspired by a group of Margiela "muses," including Quinlivan, Sasha Lane, Willow Smith, Molly Blair, office 08 cover star, Princess Nokia, and Hanne Gaby Odiele, who walked in the show to an updated version of "Tainted Love" by longtime Margiela collaborator, Jeremy Healy.

At his last Margiela Artisanal presentation in July, Galliano was focued on the future––models wore VR headsets and carried iPhones that were physically (and literally) attached to their hips. But for his S/S '19 range, it seems the designer was looking towards the past, as a way to inform his present vision for the brand, and continue transforming it in the future. "Everything is about a memory," he said backstage after the show.

Peep some of our favorite looks, below.

Photos courtesy of the brand.

Fashion

Total Recall

Born in the Moroccan town of Tétouan and educated in Paris, Khattabi’s upbringing required him to make sense of how the different influences surrounding him could align. In turn, his designs explore the embedded codes and history of his bicultural background. Total Recall addresses this phenomon by including garments meant to reflect adaptation and transformation. Skirts made of tire covers and motorcyle tarpaulins refashioned into dresses are scattered across the collection, conveying notions of displacement. Blending these elements adds an industrial touch to the pieces while still keeping a sense of movement.

From sweatpants infused with polka dots to nostaglic slogans and banner display, the ensembles symbolize hidden identities and memories. Giving us a glimpse into his own memories, Khattabi's work evokes affection for the past. It's a nod to the interconnectedness of culture and how we interact with its complexitites creatively. View the collection below.

reward if found is available at LN-CC, 10 Corso Como, Gr8, Opener, and more selected retailers globally.

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Dr. Martens x MM6 Maison Margiela reveal their first capsule collection

November 12, 2024

Dr. Martens and MM6 Maison Margiela have teamed up for the first time to launch a Fall/Winter capsule collection that reinvents classic footwear with a fresh twist. The collection combines four iconic Dr. Martens styles—the 1460 and 1490 boots, the 1461 shoe, and the Penton loafer—into three unique hybrid designs, each with MM6’s special touch.

Revealed at MM6 Maison Margiela’s AW24 show, these designs mix familiar Dr. Martens silhouettes in surprising ways, adding bold new details. Each piece has Dr. Martens’ signature yellow stitching and AirWair heel loop, along with MM6’s unique numbered imprint.

The Dr. Martens x MM6 Maison Margiela collection launches November 19 on both brands’ websites, in select MM6 stores, and at limited retailers.