When D’Banj’s ‘Oliver Twist’ debuted in the top 10 of the UK Singles Chart back in 2011, it felt quietly historic at the time. Less than a decade prior to that milestone, attaining access to Nigerian music prior was far from straightforward prior to streaming. For example, I can hardly recall how ‘African Queen’ by 2Baba (then known as 2Face Idibia) came into my life—perhaps I downloaded it from Limewire—but I remember how remote it felt. Like something from another world.
When Spotify invited me to Lagos for their ‘Afrobeats: Culture in Motion’ excursion—a week-long programme of events, activations and performances across Victoria Island and Lekki—it felt like an opportunity to witness the genre’s evolution up close. Designed to capture the genre’s impact over the past five years, the itinerary promised a rare behind-the-scenes look at the artists, institutions and traditions that have shaped Nigerian music both past and present.
Guided by the Akan principle of Sankofa—the belief that one must understand the past to move forward, it was fitting that the trip began with a visit to the home belonging to the man who started it all: the ‘Godfather of Afrobeat’, Fela Aníkúlápó Kútì. After his death in 1997, the residence was preserved and re-opened to the public in 2012 as ‘The Kalakuta Museum’.
Adorned across one room were print outs of iconic album artworks like ‘Zombie’, ‘Yellow Fever’ and ‘Ikoyi Blindness’. All evocative of the music itself; arresting, confrontational, expressive and colourful. Another room was lined with newspaper clippings detailing his famously turbulent relationship with the Nigerian government, as well as his own political manifesto. The most compelling element of the museum was the collection of personal family portraits, spanning his own childhood through to his children and the successive generations that followed. Nobly, the very room where he would sleep was off limits to the public. A reminder that despite how much Fela has become deified in memory and tribute, there’s still a sacredness being honoured.
Leaving the interior behind, we ascended to the building’s rooftop for an ‘in conversation’ with Fela’s grandson Madé Kuti led by Spotify Africa’s Head of Communications and PR, Miche Atagana. Fatefully, if not ironic, this was unfolding on the 65th anniversary of Nigeria’s independence from Britain. Offering a tongue-in-cheek remark about the country’s ongoing sociopolitical shortcomings, Madé hinted that there was little cause for celebration. What ensued as he spoke were chilling reflections on the stark difference in the cultural pride Nigeria now has for Fela compared to when he was alive. “There was a shift from him being represented so negatively in the media to suddenly being an icon that everyone should measure up to, whether it be musically or philosophically. I remember when it was uncool to be a child or grandchild of Fela”, Madé remarked. Illustrating that the foundations Fela laid for generations of succeeding Nigerian musicians, were borne from fraught and complicated circumstances.














