Miu Miu FW23: New Elegance

March 08, 2023

Miu Miu raised eyebrows last year with the introduction of the micro-mini skirt that broke the internet, which debuted in the House’s SS23 collection. This year, the brand appeased our brains by revealing a collection that urged onlookers to think twice, reminding us that everything is what it seems, and that perception is easily altered by reframing one’s perspective.

The Fall/Winter 2023 Collection, “Ways of Looking,” reimagined the standard recipe of what makes an outfit. A delicious-looking ensemble, is, of course, nuanced in its proportional balance and precisely styled with the proper accoutrements. But through presenting familiar, elegantly structured garments in unorthodox ways, our understanding of current trends is granted permission to take flight — what we thought we once knew, has now transformed completely.

Text by Kayla Curtis-Evans
Photos Courtesy of Miu Miu

In the Palais d’Iena, models descended down an array of raised runways, giving the audience a heightened sense of observation. Behind the models, an installation by South Korean artist Geumhyung Jeong further immersed attendees in the interplay between the clothing and the wearer. We witnessed an all-star cast including Mia Goth, Ethel Cain, Amelia Grey, Zaya Wade, and Emma Corrin display pieces that were supplied new meaning through their manipulation.

Excessive layering, exposed stocking waistbands, and sheer slip dress overlays introduce a complexity that runs deeper than the understanding of the pieces themselves — it is grasping the pieces all in relation to each other that informs each look. Dainty cardigans, bulky oversized layers, sleek satchels, and sans-pants get-ups — without a doubt informed by this past year’s viral “no pants” fad — graced the runway.

On the surface level, the subdued color palette of the show, in conjunction with traditional feminine silhouettes, signals to the Miu Miu girl who is buttoned-up and refined — she’s rarely late and always on time. But a closer look provides the viewer with more context; the FW23 Miu Miu girl may be a little bit tardy and her hair is unbrushed (as displayed by the cast who each sported the ‘I woke up like this’ hairstyle) — yet she’s still chic as ever. And it seems that in today’s climate, chic is more of an attitude than a physical manifestation anyway.

View photos of the runway show and full collection below.

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