The world of the movie theater played a key role in this collection — a classical fixture of the brand’s LA home. From dramatic golden embellishments to the Hollywood swagger of dressed-town tuxedos, Mike Amiri’s latest work was an undeniable homage. Releases included a new signature pattern, the MA Quad, a brand first that was dotted on silk scarves, embossed velvet suiting, and other tailoring. AMIRI always aims to tell a distinctly American story. High waisted trousers influenced by skate sensibility, the LA map on a cropped leather blouson jacket, and the venue’s movie theater-esque setting all brought this to fruition through vivid creative faculty.
Images courtesy of Amiri
Having Ronaldhino walk in one’s show is no everyday occurrence — but it’s one that Colm Dillane achieved this season. In a sumptuous fur and bright colors reminiscent of the rest of the collection’s delights, the soccer star represented the charged era of KidSuper. The show was also an opportunity to showcase key partnerships with Canada Goose on fleece jackets and puffer vests, as well as a sneak peek from an upcoming collaboration with the Brooklyn Nets. Drama felt central to the new looks — a model walked the runway with a sweater progressively torn by an unseen tether (to raucous cheers), and oversized fur hats, splashy prints, and joyous fanfare were all present.
Images courtesy of KidSuper
Rhude delivered across core staples and trend tap-ins including heavy fur, loose trousers, and elegant leather shoes. The name of the game for much of the collection was monochrome, a satisfyingly simple, but no less entertaining strategy that put their strong offerings in leather and denim on full display. In an era that has seen designer Rhuigi Villaseñor’s brief stint at Bally and lawsuit drama come to pass, it’s impossible not to commend the brand’s sustained continuity and creativity. Bitesize details like a belt-loop keychain, golden rings, and silver lapel bin complexified assorted looks. They built a wave of preppy-meets-cosmopolitan which crested assertively by the time Villaseñor himself walked out in the last look.
Images courtesy of Rhude
With a thoughtful course of action, Winnie took over the American Library of Paris for their show (encouraging viewers to support their local reading hubs). Models wore a versatile arrangement of suiting and everyday wear that would have been just as applicable on the streets of London or New York, as between the shelves of this Parisian library. The sensual menswear moment was also captured in skin-hugging tanks and deep necklines. Strategic use of colors like zeitgeisty red, rich cream, and assorted striping added layers of Winnie’s recognizable whimsy. Citing the beat generation and Ted Joans as inspirations, It wasn’t hard to visualize creatives of the last century meeting at a local watering hole, lighting a cigarette and discussing current events in Winnie’s latest collection.
Images courtesy of Winnie
Instead of lazily replicating aesthetics for cultural clout, the brand directs its focus towards assessing the potential of key figures integral to the social fabric of any local club. For FW2024, Prototypes offers a close examination of its unsung heroes — the groundskeeper, the kitman, the coach, the youth.
Crafted from upcycled sportswear, including tracksuits and old football shirts, Series 06 redefines sportswear as another kind of uniform — one that in commercial use, expires and renews seasonally, making it abundantly available for upcycling. It stands as a tribute to football's communal beginnings, "updated with a contemporary sensibility," rightfully glorifying the old in the excessive obsession with newness. The campaign was shot at a local club in England in collaboration with the Grimbsy-born, London-based powerhouse Betsy Johnson.
Prototypes plans to sponsor the kits for the club's new women's team. Shop Series06 when it drops at proto.types.ch.
The new collection has a mystical, alien-like feel, with an assortment of 3D Cargo Ski Pants, vests, hooded jackets, and bags, all oversized and of course puffer jackets in unique oversized lines. The collection is described by Zhang himself as an interpretation of a lost ancient civilization. Zhang transforms tradition into avant-garde fashion, thinking out of the box and delivering design artifacts that are fresh and edgy.
Dingyun Zhang also put an interesting spin on adventure essentials, as the collection features remolded ice fishing tents, survival rescue rubber suits and life vests, inspired by the vision of artists like Christo and Jeanne Claude, known for their large-scale environmental installations.
Notable pieces in this collection include the Quilted Volume Jacket and Reflex Cocoon jacket, reinventing the Terlig Coat, along with the "Bronze" Quilted Volume Jacket. Dive into the collection here.
