NAILS FIRST!

Not all latex micro minis need to be black or red, nor are all heavily pierced faces found atop dark JNCOs and a Sex Pistols shirt. While pulling more punk references to be infused with a palate of pinks and lavender can go awry quite fast, Poster Girl perfected it with a collection beautifully cohesive, without foregoing impressive range from look to look. Touching on motifs from Western wear with heavy, sparkling belt buckles, to a 2000s inspired hot pink crochet bodysuit embellished with rhinestones, to a flowing white beaded English flag dress, to a neutral colored latext bra top that left nothing to the imagination... To reiterate, there was range.

One of the key elements in bringing it all together was the beauty, done by Isamaya Ffrench with the Industrial collection from her self-titled line ISAMAYA. With razor-cut brows, dustings of glitter and heavy silver face piercings installed on the models, the artist's work was the cherry on top of a memorable collection, drawing out elements of the design work and unique accessories, weaving the pieces together with unparalleled, signature skills.

Backstage, in pre-show chaos, I got to sit down with Isamaya herself to discuss what made this season shine so brightly. 

You mentioned this show was an especially fun one for you to work on. What makes that the case?

ISAMAYA FRENCH Because Francesca and Natasha (the founders) are always open to creative makeup for their projects; shoots and shows, I can always come up with a little unusual detail and they’ll be happy to go for it. Besides, their clothes ARE fun. It’s sexy, fancy, everything you want to wear on a night out!

When working on a show, what are the aspects of the brand, show, and collection that you hone in on to come up with a creative game plan for your part in it?

IF I always ask first if the designers have a specific makeup direction in mind. If not, we create a moodboard of references based on the collection and just bounce off each other’s ideas. It’s a very organic process.

Why do you feel aligned with this show and Poster Girl?

IF They always let me do my thing, even if at first glance it’s not an obvious choice. For their SS23 show, which I just sponsored and did the makeup for, they let me explore the potential of our Browlacq product by doing exaggerated, razor cut brows, on top of face piercings on various areas of the face, which looked really edgy against their colourful, sparkly, sexy outfits.

How would you describe the energy of London Fashion Week? What sets it apart? 

IF London is really different from the other fashion weeks! It feels more creative, less establishment. The fashion can also be much bolder, because people here are daring with their style more. But I don’t know, it’s also where I live, I know everyone, it’s like a big family.

How does Poster Girl channel this? 

IF Even though they cater to a different crowd than what London people are seen as, they have a very London eye because their clothes are not just sexy and fun. There’s a real edge to their look, the way they accessorize and they’re not afraid of going what would be called too far outside of London. They’re fierce.

Check some of our favorite looks from the show below, and head to the office Instagram to get the full backstage experience.

Runways images courtesy of Getty Images.