Nicola Brognano Sets Blumarine On Fire

February 26, 2023

Blumarine has clearly settled into a new groove, now eight collections in since Creative Director Nicola Brognano revitalized the Italian brand back in 2021. The modern Blumarine muse arrives somewhere between the edgy seductress, femme fatale persona that Brognano has so fervently endorsed, and the traditional romanticism and softness that Anna Molinari founded the brand on in the ‘70s. On Thursday in Milan, Brognano presented his Fall/Winter 2023 collection on a dirt runway that wound through ruins that resembled the grounds of a fallen castle. Inspired by the original medieval heroine, Joan of Arc, he played to his strengths in materiality to conjure visions of models clad in armor.

Material conflict has so elegantly played a part in each of Brognano’s collections — here delicate trains and silks play devil’s advocate with rough leathers and cargo. The opening looks are dominated by liquid metallic sets and dresses paired with earthy heavy-duty leather and shearling. The collection then breaks into looks carrying more material weight — heavy draping and straps cascade down from models’ necks and hips, suggestive details that hint at a mace and chain over the shoulder. Studded arm cuffs and neck collars lend an air of nonchalant confidence. All the while, necklines plunge and buttons come undone, maintaining sensuality beneath heftier outerwear.

Text by Kaia Carioli
Photos courtesy of Blumarine

Several of Brognano's closing looks made reference to Alexander McQueen's Fall 1998 Ready to Wear collection "Ring of Fire," which was a more literal interpretation of Joan of Arc and medieval armor. Brognano’s closing runway look, a potent red high-low tattered fringe gown, delivered on Blumarine fans’ craving rouge. It was also the moment that crystallized the collection’s reference to McQueen. That iconic 1998 show closed with model Erin O’Connor embodying a spectre of Joan of Arc in another blood red fringed dress.

In recollection of Joan’s sentence to death-by-fire in the mid 15th century, O’Connor theatrically closed out the show writhing around encircled by a ring of fire on the ground – much like the B that was aflame throughout the Blumarine show. Brognano’s closing look evoked similar feelings of violence, death, and the power of the Divine Feminine.

Fashion

ECCO.kollektive collaborates with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi

November 21, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has teamed up with Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for a bold and innovative Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Known for his thoughtful exploration of masculinity and storytelling in fashion, Nouchi brings his unique perspective to this collaboration, blending his modern aesthetic with ECCO’s skill in craftsmanship and material innovation.

The collection features a range of footwear, clothing, and accessories, each designed with attention to detail. The collection uses a mix of black, deep red, and pearl white. Sensual touches, like Nouchi’s signature slits, combine with structured tailoring and flowing shapes, showing how the designer blends bold and refined styles.

We spoke with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi about the collection and his inspiration. From the textures of the human body to his love for stretch leather, Nouchi shared how the collaboration allowed to experiment with new ideas.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of ECCO.kollektive x LGN

The collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week and draws inspiration from the textures of the human body. “The idea came from the textures of skin,” Nouchi explains. “I wanted to create something sensual and fluid, using leather in a way that felt both strong and soft. Leather has this amazing quality—it can feel like armor, but also like a second skin.”

Nouchi worked closely with ECCO to develop designs that showcase the versatility of their materials. High-shine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish appears in tailored separates like a single-breasted blazer, trousers, and long-line shorts. For a more experimental edge, he created a column dress and a pencil skirt using strips of leather embroidered onto stretchy tulle—a design he says was inspired by his younger self. “When I was young, I was obsessed with stretch leather because of designers like Jean-Claude Jitrois. It’s something I wanted to explore and bring into this collection, almost like fulfilling a dream for my past self.”

Footwear is another major highlight, featuring Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and the standout Truck Lace loafer with a bold platform. The shoe’s futuristic design draws from Nouchi’s fascination with brutalism and technology. “It might be a bit controversial,” he says, laughing, “but I really like the Tesla Cybertruck. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look combined with that raw, brutalist vibe—it’s something that resonates with me. The platform on the Truck Lace loafer feels like a nod to that kind of design.”

Another unique detail is the inclusion of removable coins on some of the shoes, adding a playful yet personal touch. “You can take the coins off—it becomes almost like a lucky charm,” Nouchi says. “It’s one of those small details that make the pieces feel more connected to the wearer.”

Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s signature slit motif, which adds subtle hints of reveal and concealment, runs throughout the collection. “The slit is about teasing the eye,” he explains. “It’s never about revealing too much—it’s about creating tension, a little mystery.” This motif appears on everything from loafers to hems, blending seamlessly with the collection's sensual yet structured aesthetic.

When asked about the versatility of his designs, Nouchi emphasizes their adaptability to different occasions. “You can wear these pieces in super casual situations on the street, looking super chic at night—super sexy,” he says. “From one garment, you can style it in so many ways during the day. For example, the tank top—you can wear it with pants, or without. It’s super hot, super cool, and it works for so many moments.”

For Nouchi, the collaboration with ECCO was as much about innovation as it was about creative freedom. “There are no limits with ECCO,” he says. “As a designer obsessed with materials, having the freedom to push development this far was an amazing opportunity. Fashion, for me, is like a laboratory. It’s about testing ideas and seeing how far we can take them.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available now, combining high-quality craftsmanship with bold, modern design that showcases Nouchi’s vision and ECCO’s craftsmanship.

Fashion

A New Lee® and Alpha Industries Collaboration Takes Flight

Fashion

Escaping the Glass Cage

November 19, 2024

For years, she stood still, watching life rush past her, a quiet observer behind the glass. Now, the glass is broken, and she steps out into the unknown. She walks through the city, caught between two worlds—part of it, yet apart from it.

Her journey is quiet but bold, searching for something she’s never understood, something just out of reach. On church steps and under glowing city lights, she questions everything: the rules, the past, and where she truly belongs. Each step feels both freeing and uncertain.

A curious soul in a borrowed life, she keeps moving forward, leaving behind only whispers of her escape, like a fleeting shadow in the night.