Nicola Brognano Sets Blumarine On Fire

February 26, 2023

Blumarine has clearly settled into a new groove, now eight collections in since Creative Director Nicola Brognano revitalized the Italian brand back in 2021. The modern Blumarine muse arrives somewhere between the edgy seductress, femme fatale persona that Brognano has so fervently endorsed, and the traditional romanticism and softness that Anna Molinari founded the brand on in the ‘70s. On Thursday in Milan, Brognano presented his Fall/Winter 2023 collection on a dirt runway that wound through ruins that resembled the grounds of a fallen castle. Inspired by the original medieval heroine, Joan of Arc, he played to his strengths in materiality to conjure visions of models clad in armor.

Material conflict has so elegantly played a part in each of Brognano’s collections — here delicate trains and silks play devil’s advocate with rough leathers and cargo. The opening looks are dominated by liquid metallic sets and dresses paired with earthy heavy-duty leather and shearling. The collection then breaks into looks carrying more material weight — heavy draping and straps cascade down from models’ necks and hips, suggestive details that hint at a mace and chain over the shoulder. Studded arm cuffs and neck collars lend an air of nonchalant confidence. All the while, necklines plunge and buttons come undone, maintaining sensuality beneath heftier outerwear.

Text by Kaia Carioli
Photos courtesy of Blumarine

Several of Brognano's closing looks made reference to Alexander McQueen's Fall 1998 Ready to Wear collection "Ring of Fire," which was a more literal interpretation of Joan of Arc and medieval armor. Brognano’s closing runway look, a potent red high-low tattered fringe gown, delivered on Blumarine fans’ craving rouge. It was also the moment that crystallized the collection’s reference to McQueen. That iconic 1998 show closed with model Erin O’Connor embodying a spectre of Joan of Arc in another blood red fringed dress.

In recollection of Joan’s sentence to death-by-fire in the mid 15th century, O’Connor theatrically closed out the show writhing around encircled by a ring of fire on the ground – much like the B that was aflame throughout the Blumarine show. Brognano’s closing look evoked similar feelings of violence, death, and the power of the Divine Feminine.

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Born in the Moroccan town of Tétouan and educated in Paris, Khattabi’s upbringing required him to make sense of how the different influences surrounding him could align. In turn, his designs explore the embedded codes and history of his bicultural background. Total Recall addresses this phenomon by including garments meant to reflect adaptation and transformation. Skirts made of tire covers and motorcyle tarpaulins refashioned into dresses are scattered across the collection, conveying notions of displacement. Blending these elements adds an industrial touch to the pieces while still keeping a sense of movement.

From sweatpants infused with polka dots to nostaglic slogans and banner display, the ensembles symbolize hidden identities and memories. Giving us a glimpse into his own memories, Khattabi's work evokes affection for the past. It's a nod to the interconnectedness of culture and how we interact with its complexitites creatively. View the collection below.