SEA FALL 2023
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This season, the designers riffed on the idea of “handcraft.” It made for one of their most reassuring outings to date—and looked ready to jump off a poised side, as they returned to more of the classic-like styling of Spring collections. Polished was the word they used to describe this collection. “This season’s hero pieces represent a change in the codes of tailoring as we take a step towards a new era of polished bohemia,” Paolini and Monahan noted. Cool or not, they deconstructed the lineup by serving a throughline used to reimagine timeless classics with a nod to the androgynous attitude of ‘90s streetwear and loose tailoring. Sea offered plenty of pieces to turn frowns upside down. Some were fun, and included track pants lined with a crochet side panel, dark denim jeans with cut-out detailing and a tweed skirt with lace slit and a fringed maxi dress.
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Separates included long, color-blocked skirts in fresh monochromes and structured silhouettes, teamed with leather details and dresses stitched with Indian embroidery saturated in earthy hues for a nature-like effect. Color-blocking seems to be the biggest trend of the season, and Sea’s muted tone-on-tone proposals are lovely additions to the creative canon: continuing to play with proportion while juxtaposing severity and experimentation, this season’s most successful venture was a defiance that breached into the silhouette, “revealing crescents of bare skin, we celebrate the natural shape of the body.”
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The shift to the body continues through narrow volumes that skim the form, producing a mix of sporty and elegant staples that oozed freshness across the board. But for all the oppositions at play, there was a rack of impeccably-cut, gently volumised outerwear that needed no apology at all. At least, for the Sea aficionado.
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