Skaters, Shownu and More at Concept Korea: FW24

February 16, 2024

Concept Korea returned to NYFW with a presentation including collections from MMAM, CHARM’S, and KIMMY J. K-pop star and icon Shownu opened and introduced the first look of each selection. The collections were dynamic and intriguing, boasting playful elements that kept the audience on their toes. MMAM opened with an array of curious and elegant designs infused with playfully edgy graffiti detailing. CHARM'S took the audience on a journey into the depths of a dark dystopian future with their striking all-black looks that were unforgettable to say the least. Kimmy J. closed the show with a more youthful take having skaters glide down the runway before unveiling designs that were both fresh and winter-ready, capturing the essence of street style with a cozy twist.

Check out our interview and get an exclusive look behind-the-scenes below.

By Sarah Hersom
Photography Nikki Burnett

Looking back at the internal developments since last season's showcase, what did you do differently in terms of design?

MMAM— A variety of materials that were not used last season, such as 100 wool and silk chiffon, were used harmoniously. We also used sustainable quilting padding. This season, the concept was further strengthened for brand identity. We developed new fabrics to express the minimalism of the 90s with a focus on doodle drawing.

CHARM'S— We have further explored captivating outfits and unique details through curves and straight lines.

KIMMY J— Last season, we developed designs focusing on looks for festivals or special holidays that escape everyday life, but this time, we focused on comfort, practicality, and functionality as travel looks that can be taken right out of everyday life. If you look closely at our looks, you will find that there are many design elements within them. It might be fun to see the hidden functionality.

MMAM

Drawing inspiration from the minimalist aesthetic of her '90s childhood, Park Hyun, MMAM's designer, reimagines traditional pieces like raincoats, trench coats, and blazers. Graffiti doodles breathe new life into classic silhouettes, both elegant and airy with a playful charm.

What message do you want your design to convey on the New York fashion stage?

MMAM— When I think about my childhood in the '90s, I remember the time when I couldn't wait to grow up and become a great adult. Quail luxury minimalism; we reinterpreted the minimalism of the 90s to add brand identity and value.

CHARM’S— This collection was inspired from the verse, "We loved the stars so much that we are no longer afraid of the night," and focused on encapsulating the challenging energy that is directed towards a goal, through the music, the image of the models and styling, in line with the concept.

KIMMY J— Everyone has the right to be beautiful. Our clothes are beautiful no matter who wears them. With delicate production and styling, the density and details of the look come to life no matter who wears it. That's why our collection is presented through models of different body types and ethnicities.

CHARM'S

MMAM's light and breezy feel flowed seamless into CHARM's contrasting dark and dystopian ambiance. CHARM'S design approach is consumer-centric, with a focus on crafting fun and innovative pieces that instill wearers with confidence and grace; the looks were fearless and futuristic.

We loved the stars so much that we were no longer afraid of the dark.

The show had a lot of statement pieces. What piece of work means the most to you and why?

MMAM— The first signature look, our brand is inspired by unconscious behavior and designs. We are evolving every season, but this season's first look is the most updated version of our brand's long-standing signature.

CHARM’S— The glossy cropped jacket ensemble embodies the concept of moving towards the goal, reflecting the evolution of this season's design elements most effectively.

KIMMY J— I think the clothes worn by Shownu and the male model right in front of him are the most meaningful. I think this is an outfit that was carefully created by wearing several similar outfits and considering the most important aspects of practicality, detail, and design. Suitable for hiking and other activities, the outerwear function was applied to the bottoms to provide added warmth with a luxurious mood. Laptop storage space behind the back where you can separate and store important belongings such as cell phone or AirPod payment method.

KIMMY J

The final part of the show caught the audience by surprise; two skaters in puffer jackets rolled down the runway for the opening of Kimmy J's showcase. Kimmy J.'s collection exuded an icy-cool and refreshing vibe, with headphones, legwarmers, fuzzy and cozy materials, ear warmers, and winter accessories intertwined with puffer jackets and streetwear attire.

How would you summarize the show?

MMAM— When I think about my childhood in the 90s, I remember the time when I couldn't wait to grow up and become a great adult. Am I now the adult I thought I would be? I hope everyone becomes the wonderful adult I dreamed of back then.

CHARM'S— I wanted to convey a sense of speed, and I feel like we achieved that with sharp features and hair that appeared to be running.

KIMMY J— One word: traveler. We hope people will think of traveling while wearing our clothes, whether in the city or anywhere else. Both a mental journey and a physical journey.

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Total Recall

Born in the Moroccan town of Tétouan and educated in Paris, Khattabi’s upbringing required him to make sense of how the different influences surrounding him could align. In turn, his designs explore the embedded codes and history of his bicultural background. Total Recall addresses this phenomon by including garments meant to reflect adaptation and transformation. Skirts made of tire covers and motorcyle tarpaulins refashioned into dresses are scattered across the collection, conveying notions of displacement. Blending these elements adds an industrial touch to the pieces while still keeping a sense of movement.

From sweatpants infused with polka dots to nostaglic slogans and banner display, the ensembles symbolize hidden identities and memories. Giving us a glimpse into his own memories, Khattabi's work evokes affection for the past. It's a nod to the interconnectedness of culture and how we interact with its complexitites creatively. View the collection below.

reward if found is available at LN-CC, 10 Corso Como, Gr8, Opener, and more selected retailers globally.

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November 12, 2024

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Revealed at MM6 Maison Margiela’s AW24 show, these designs mix familiar Dr. Martens silhouettes in surprising ways, adding bold new details. Each piece has Dr. Martens’ signature yellow stitching and AirWair heel loop, along with MM6’s unique numbered imprint.

The Dr. Martens x MM6 Maison Margiela collection launches November 19 on both brands’ websites, in select MM6 stores, and at limited retailers.