How do you see the evolution of how people see and wear hats throughout your career?
SJ: It’s very different, hats used to be very much occasion wear and now they have polarised it to be fantasy or totally functional as a beanie on a Monday morning.
Tell us about your design process. Where do you start? How do you think about the hat and the body?
SJ: I live my life and put it into a hat, so I never really stop designing in my head it’s just occasionally those ideas are put down on paper and become hats. I always think about the hat with the body because a hat is not a separate object it needs to become a part of the person
Tell us about your ability to bring other designers' vision to life. How are you able to be so creatively adaptable through your numerous collaborations and long-spanning relationships?
SJ: It’s really about bringing their imagination to life, it’s what we create together. That’s the key they couldn’t do it themselves and I couldn’t do it myself, it’s something we do together. I have to get inside their mind which is very unusual for an outsider.
" I live my life and put it into a hat. "
Tell us about your mentorship with Shirley Hex. How do you see the importance of learning the rules before you break them?
SJ: My time with Shirley Hex was extraordinary and she taught me the main principals of millinery, however after a couple of years she forced me out the nest and encouraged me to develop my own style in my own way.
How does British, London, and/or Paris culture influence your work?
SJ: Completely; British culture is a weird dichotomy of something that is very aristocratic or something that is very punk, but Paris brings something which is coquettish and mannered.
" It’s really about bringing their imagination to life, it’s what we create together. "
You've experimented with so many unconventional materials, how do you decide a material is meaningful to transform into a hat?
SJ: Well it has to serve the purpose of what the hat is trying to be, but also when you are making it, the hat serves the purpose of the fabric.
The Palais Galliera devoted a full retrospective to your work, what was it like seeing your work in this presentation? What do you want your legacy to be?
SJ: Number 1 it is an extraordinary honour to be included there. I could see my work, almost in the 3rd person, I didn’t see it as being uniquely personal but saw it as it being presented to others and I could analyse it quite dryly. My legacy to be that the pursuit of dressing can be a wonderful extension either of your character or who you want to be.
What do you think is a misconception about hats and the process of creating them?
SJ: That they are quick and easy, it’s very laborious because they are 3d objects.
Do you feel your design process is more learned or instinctual?
SJ: I think it’s a conversation of the two. I love learning about a particular subject and trying to transform that into a hat, but at the same time spontaneous expression is important because it looks fresh.
What other mediums of art inspire your hats the most?
SJ: I would probably say the most is architecture but nature as well as painting and sculpture, but the form of everything and everything, whether it’s an Opera or an apple, they tell a specific story.
SJ: Is there a hat you would never wear?
I would try everything, but not wear things which I didn’t feel were convincing i.e. a cowboy hat
What made the environment and culture of The Blitz a fertile ground for creativity?
SJ: Because it filled the vacuum that had been left by punk.
Do you have any favorite young milliners?
SJ: As the Chairman of the British Hat Guild, I am not allowed to say whether I do have or not
Where do you think people's fear around wearing hats comes from?
SJ: Sometimes it’s the fear of standing out too much and therefore assuming a greater importance than they feel they should have but often you can hide underneath hats too and hats can be the conversation for you.
Is there a hat that got away? An idea you've wanted to create but haven't yet actualized?
SJ: Yes I am always looking for that hat around the corner.
While the crossover between gorpcore and fashion is not necessarily new, adidas continues to be a driving force behind this in today’s fashion sphere. Comfortability meshed with a cool practicality is what gorpcore is all about, and the Skychaser AX5 sneaker is one that can be worn on not only hikes, but a cool comfy night out.
While connecting for a mutual love of staying active, and keeping fashion at the forefront, adidas TERREX acts as the blueprint for this intersection. When asked about this impact from a branding perspective, Outdoor Category Director Elisa Schaller says, “The influence of outdoor aesthetics into fashion and everyday lifestyle is a direction that feels natural and authentic to our brand. Adidas has been sitting at the intersection of sports and culture for a long time with deep roots in both worlds and exciting crossovers. For Outdoor Product, we love taking inspiration from adidas running or lifestyle categories to create unique perspectives for Hiking or Trail Running. Our top priority is enhancing outdoor experiences, and we’re excited to see the benefits appreciated in other settings too. Today's Outdoor consumers seamlessly move between city and mountains in their sports and everyday life and we are here to make this as easy as possible for them."
Orchestrated by Fran Tirado and the House of Doll Invasion, the energy was visceral: queer bodies swimming, dancing, and taking up space not only protected, but proudly unhidden. With Tommy Dorfman, Chelsea Manning, and Prabal Gurung in the crowd, and with support flowing toward trans-led orgs like Queer|Art and Advocates for Trans Equality, Doll Invasion etched itself into queer cultural history, proof that a party can be both resistance and revolution.