Strength and Vulnerability at Kiko Kostadinov

March 06, 2024

For their FW24 collection, Kiko Kostadinov is all about balance and dichotomy. Showing in Paris, twin sisters and designers Laura and Deanna Fanning play with hard and soft. Regarding their conception of “The Kiko Kostadinov woman,” this collection is meant to exist at the “tipping point of her strength and vulnerability.”

Some looks featured pastels and draped sheer fabrics, others featured stiff, armored silhouettes and earth tones. There’s something that feels vaguely geometric about this season’s work — from graphic distortion to fabric sculpting and anatomical augmentation, the entire collection is a game of the eye. But that doesn’t mean the pieces aren’t wearable. A three-piece denim suit comes out of a collaboration with Levi’s and the debut of the carry-all Mezulari bag is a stylish take on the utilitarian messenger. Kiko Kostadinov sums their work up best: “A variety of desires play out; intact or wounded, tender or aggressive serving as distinct markers of vulnerability within us.”

By Izzy Capulong
Photography by Boris Halas

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"I think of it as almost building a family. I'm not interested in erasing everything and starting over every six months," said Karlsson. "I want to find forms that feel like they belong to us, then let them evolve and introduce new ones around them. Over time, they start to build a world of their own."

The collection features a muted tonal colour palette, which is broken up by bright red colour-blocked pieces. Unconventional structures become the pleated canvas for these colours. One particular silhouette, an almost chandelabra-like silhouette, became a central motif, being placed in juxtaposition to heavily textured knitted and woven materials.

Text by JohnOswald Crichton
Photos courtesy of Avavav

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Demna became creative director of Gucci in 2025, coming off a ten-year stint at Balenciaga. His first collection with Gucci, La Famiglia, was defined by extravagant gowns, skimpy and sequined mini-dresses, huge fur coats, and a respect for the masculine-feminine. With The Store Show, he surrenders to androgyny and blurs the lines between high fashion and pop culture. A case study on bourgeois style highlighted with a certain sexuality that bridges the gap between the respective men's and women’s collections.

Demna takes us back to Gucci’s roots— a humble beginning at Savoy Hotel in London–with his own personal refinement 100 years later. His fusion of style in this collection is not coincidental. After a year at Gucci, researching and understanding what it is exactly that the House stands for, he promises a space that he envisions is true to Gucci. A space of endless inspiration, assured possibility, and unlikely connection.