vowels FW24

With fewer than 30 guests, the event felt less like a launch and more like a moment of shared contemplation. After some time exploring the space, a conversation began between Roitfeld and Niedermair, moderated by Alex Delotch Davis. They spoke about the curatorial process behind House of Craft and how it differed from shaping editorial stories. Both emphasized how much of Dior’s haute couture history is deeply political, and how they approached the exhibition through that lens. Roitfeld shared that the experience taught her things even she hadn’t known — like how Dior’s iconic “Bar” jacket got its name: Christian Dior imagined it being worn at the bar during cocktail hour.

Walking through the exhibition felt like a learning experience in itself. One of the first things I discovered was that Dior had studied political science at Sciences Po — the prestigious Paris Institute of Political Studies, known for producing everyone from influential journalists to presidents. It added another layer of meaning to the show, especially after hearing Roitfeld and Niedermair speak about the political dimensions of couture.

One of the most captivating parts of the exhibition was the Atelier — a quiet corner where two artisans were at work, handcrafting Dior’s iconic ‘Bar’ suit and a pleated dress. They told me that making all the buttons for the suit takes about two weeks, and completing an entire dress can take up to three months. Their quiet focus made the labor behind couture feel immediate — and human.

Each section felt distinctly its own, yet Niedermair’s photographs of haute couture from every creative director served as a visual thread — tying the experience together with quiet cohesion. House of Craft strikes a rare balance between past and present. At a time when democratic institutions around the world are under strain, it felt especially powerful to witness a retrospective of another kind of enduring institution — not a country, but a creative house. One shaped over decades by many voices, each offering a singular vision while contributing to a shared legacy.