Y/PROJECT Nods To Celebrity and Brand Codes for FW24

Of course, it’s not actually that simple. Citing uncertain times and financial strategy, the team voiced what many emerging and mid-level brands have shared in recent years. “Putting on a runway show entails significant costs, all for a brief 15-minute viewing experience,” industry commentator and critic Hunter Shires explains. “This reflects the broader trend of brands prioritizing cost-effective ways to showcase their collections, especially when they have other houses on their hands.”

Y/PROJECT’s latest work spellbinds beyond the need for a Paris catwalk – from invitingly oversize silhouettes in a grab-bag of denim and cargo, to a distressed denim maxi-dress that dares to drape in a dramatically tumbling fashion. Their expertise in shoes comes to the forefront with the release of the Y/PROJECT x Salomon Speedcross 3, timed with the launch of the FW24 collection. Boots in the familiar scrunch contour reappear, this time in gray shearling and jet-black leather with a bright sheen.

Avid murder mystery readers will appreciate the references to Umberto Eco’s The Name of the Rose. It's a moody, Middle Ages-timed work that is satisfyingly in line with the other influence Marten named: pleurants (that’s “weepers” to you), sculpted medieval figures representing mourners. Ashy tones and weighty hoods dotted on several looks visualize these references.

Where there's new material to subvert, splashy talent to cast, and the will to create originality in a landscape of conglomeration and fast fashion, Y/PROJECT will find a way. There was a narrow window of questioning that could have signaled something dire, but instead it appears the brand will close this season with a playful, recommitted wink, and the promise of something indestructible in the future.