Ann Demeulemeester's Sexy, Gothic Legacy Lives On

March 06, 2023

When Ludovic de Saint Sernin announced that he was the new creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, he released six portraits by Willy Vanderperre in looks that he selected from the house’s 2000-page archive, reflecting his willingness to enter Demeulemeester's serene, darkly romantic world.

Like Demeulemeester, de Saint Sernin’s approach to clothing is extremely self-involved. He started his own namesake label, LdSS, in 2017 and quickly garnered a cult following drawn to his hedonist aesthetic and gender-fluid approach to clothing. Demeulemeester, who captured a similar audience after starting her brand in 1985, was known for her elegant tailoring and dark yet glamorous aesthetic, and her shows, which were always understated and poetically charged. Although different in their approaches, the two designers share the common threads of autobiography, craftsmanship and romance.

Demeulemeester expressed her departure from the label in 2013 with handwritten missives sent to her team and select members of the press. Touched by this sentiment, de Saint Sernin created his debut collection as a manifestation of this note. Presented at the Lycée Carnot in Paris, the thirty-six looks and show were an experiential love letter that acknowledged Demeulemeester’s legacy and heritage.

Text by Sahir Ahmed
Photos courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester

Ludovic de Saint Sernin found himself, word by word, in Ann. His collection served as a reminder that Demeulemeester is emblematic of more than just streamlined black pantsuits and white shirts that extend to the fingertips — he brought back gothically minimal gowns and revived the house's bold statement of sending models out topless with their arms crossed over their breasts. His perspective invigorated Demeulemeester's legacy with a new energy, informed by the brand's archives, yet relevant to our present moment.

Comprised of elongated silhouettes and sleek profiles typical of the house, the collection reflects a heightened attention to clean lines and genderless silhouettes. Bias-cut silk skirts slithered down to the floor under rough cropped shearling with oversized shearling bags to match; ditto backless halter dresses; sheer and velvet body suits; monochromatic leather ensembles all with an equestrian hint and saddlery details came lurking down the runway.

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November 12, 2024

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Revealed at MM6 Maison Margiela’s AW24 show, these designs mix familiar Dr. Martens silhouettes in surprising ways, adding bold new details. Each piece has Dr. Martens’ signature yellow stitching and AirWair heel loop, along with MM6’s unique numbered imprint.

The Dr. Martens x MM6 Maison Margiela collection launches November 19 on both brands’ websites, in select MM6 stores, and at limited retailers.