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Ann Demeulemeester's Sexy, Gothic Legacy Lives On

Ludovic de Saint Sernin found himself, word by word, in Ann. His collection served as a reminder that Demeulemeester is emblematic of more than just streamlined black pantsuits and white shirts that extend to the fingertips — he brought back gothically minimal gowns and revived the house's bold statement of sending models out topless with their arms crossed over their breasts. His perspective invigorated Demeulemeester's legacy with a new energy, informed by the brand's archives, yet relevant to our present moment.

 

Comprised of elongated silhouettes and sleek profiles typical of the house, the collection reflects a heightened attention to clean lines and genderless silhouettes. Bias-cut silk skirts slithered down to the floor under rough cropped shearling with oversized shearling bags to match; ditto backless halter dresses; sheer and velvet body suits; monochromatic leather ensembles all with an equestrian hint and saddlery details came lurking down the runway.

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