Telfar Fall/Winter 2017

This season, Telfar mixed up materials, making garments made of strips of different fabric—nylons, knits, denims. “It was fusing garments really,” said Clemens. “There’s a jean mixed with a sweater mixed with a turtleneck mixed with a t-shirt. It’s really a blur of genres of clothing.”

The simplicity is deceptive. The garments looked beautifully made, and, on a practical note, cozy. And the looks were scattered with hints of weirdness: knit knee socks that looked like lederhosen, painterly caps, layers of sleeves. And there were sneakers, made in collaboration with Puma, that are sure to be popular.

The show also had a pointedly political take. As he did last season, Ryan Trecartin composed a poem that served as the soundtrack for the show (the artist recited it over music by Andrew David Ross). It included lines like, “All bodies are illegal;” “It’s ninety degrees in February, it shouldn’t be;” and my personal favorite, “I have instructed Homeland Security to get fucking wasted.”

“It’s time to be political,” said Clemens. “It’s time to pick a side.”

Fashion

Monkey Business

July 22, 2019

Saint Laurent’s Winter ‘19 campaign delves into the playful and exotic side of its typical androgynousness where creative director Anthony Vaccarello paints a picture of understated opulence. In the campaign, models don very classically Saint Laurent looks—sheer black stockings paired with chrome colored heels; black sequins and slicked hair. Intriguingly, a small monkey (named Allie, according to her ‘talent’ credit) lounges on models’ shoulders, lending to the otherworldly swankiness inherent in the photographs and clothing.

The shoot is playful, yet also somewhat macabre, highlighting the gothic edge consumers count on seeing when it comes to the brand. In one shot, we see the upper half of Freja Beha Erichsen’s floating body- waif-like, basking and relaxed in such a way her body seems lifeless.

Text by Nola Schwalb
Photos courtesy of Saint Laurent

The shimmering of the pool’s aqua compliments, perhaps even enhances, the sequined dress she floats in. Towering over her is the bottom half of another model, wearing her own black-sequined garment, paired with aforementioned chrome heels. The eye is drawn to this photo, not only for its contrasting of a sun-drenched pool scene with the rocker-esque vibe of the clothing, but because it seems to hold a story to it- as if Erichsen’s ghost is looming over her, daring her out of entranced contentment and back into an elite and hypnotic underworld.

Saint Laurent dresses the wild partygoer, the dazzling and exciting individual who is untouchable and fierce. In this campaign, Vaccarello touches upon this in the lazing of this glamorous rebel-girl, in the untamed little creature that perches upon Erichsen’s crisp and unembellished blazer, and in the way Saint Laurent always inspires that sultry mix of glamour and rebellion.

Check out more photos from the collection below.

Fashion

Moonshine Collective

July 19, 2019

Fresh off the heels of the lunar eclipse this week, Moonshine Collective launches a commemorative capsule collection. Titled “Sapologie”—the group pay homage to the French-Congolese avant-garde movement. Originally from Montréal, Moonshine started as a pan-African dance party, centered around lunar transits.

For as long as civilizations have existed, music has served as an instinctual driving force to live, and express. In tandem, humans have gathered themselves under the changing moon. The campaign, shot by Oumayma B. Tanfous, features scenes of a broadly African family in their finest sportswear. Celebrating the Midnight Cup, an annual soccer “tournament meet rave”, Moonshine created the field uniform of dreams.