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A Trip Through Spain's Raving Legacy: Luis de Javier SS24

 

De Javier, today based in London and trained under the leadership of the priestess of punk, Dame Vivienne Westwood, did not arrive all alone. He teamed up with Creative Director of ASLAN World, CJ Aslan, to create maximalistic metal-wear accessories to further the ethos behind the utopia-meets-fantasy lineup. ASLAN’s artisanal - yet edgy - accessories is set out to capture the essence of modern ethereality, and the brand has gained undeniable recognition for their almost criminal elevation of the ordinary ballerinas, with their teeth flats. The two worlds came together through the touch of De Javier's new mentor who styled the collection, Riccardo Tisci — in other words, nothing short of a provocative trinity.

 

Breaking into the industry during COVID, his earlier collection was founded by a blessing in disguise — indemnity earnings from samples stolen on set. De Javier’s focal point has previously been on demi-couture and one-off pieces. Today, Tisci helps the designer meld commercial viability with his creative integrity, while De Javier continues to create clothes at the intersection of queerness, desires, and demons.

 

Last season’s presentation in New York saw his Diablo horns displayed on Julia Fox’s breasts. As for Spring / Summer 24, the devil was in the details, for a total of 25 looks. Chests were nearly naked, or waists came cinched with latex corsets and paired with leather. Low-waist suit pants swept all the way to the floor. Likewise, the collection’s central figure — the grandiose yellow trench coat — was cut with an extravagant collar and intentionally filthy, as if it had accompanied De Javier back to La Ruta del Bacalao’s erotic early hours.

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