Blair Broll Sees Past The Surface

September 12, 2024

For the month of September, office partnered with Alpha Industries to highlight eight icons in New York culture. Each of our September cover stars has shaped the next frontier across fashion, arts, music, and beyond.

Our second September cover star Blair Broll is a casting director, artist, and frontwoman of the band Girl Dick. Starting her career at 19 as a model-turned-intern for a casting director that originally scouted her on the street, Broll has since cemented herself as a singular visionary and subcultural icon in New York’s downtown scene. As a model scout and casting director, Broll has lent her acute taste to countless editorials, campaigns, runway shows and more, with clients including brands like Fendi, Miaou, and Interior and publications like Purple, Interview, and, of course, office.

Notably for someone whose job could be grossly oversimplified as “finding pretty people,” Broll feels most fulfilled when she forms real connections with the individuals she scouts and casts. Her passion for understanding the people she works with sets her apart in an industry often solely focused on appearances. Despite the flashy rooms and larger-than-life personalities her work often surrounds her with — or perhaps, in part, because of them — she is remarkably firm about separating her self-worth and self-image from her accomplishments and looks. “As long as I make a positive impact on people interpersonally in my life,” she says, “that's enough for me.”

Interview Brook Aster
Photography Adam Powell
Styling Cassie Jekanowski
Talent Blair Broll wearing A lpha Industries MA-1 Heritage Bomber
Creative Direction Mitchell Connell
Videography JP Blair
Makeup Cassandra Lee
Photo Assistant Brian Karlsson
Video Assistant Ian Wishart
Creative Producer Liv Solomon
Production Assistant Sophie Collongette
Design Direction/Art Direction W—E Studio, Claudine Eriksson and Piera Wolf
Graphic Design W—E Studio, Hannah Nathans
Special Thanks to Joe & The Juice

Do you have any rituals?

The only ritual I have is praying. I usually pray in the morning and night, and I just think about what I'm grateful for, what [positive] energy I want to bring to myself and others.

What's your favorite place in New York?

My favorite place in New York is the beach in the summer — whether it's Fire Island or Jacob Riis. Like, even if it's kind of trashy, it's still fun.

I love being downtown. My favorite bar is Clockwork. I'm always there having a beer. And I love the West Village, it just still has an iconic super-gay feel. Going to Julius’ or Pier 45 is always super fun.

What is your go-to deli order?

My go-to deli order is an everything bagel with scallion cream cheese, tomato, onion and bacon, and hot sauce, and then some sort of caffeine, like an iced coffee or a Celsius.

I drink coffee in the morning, coffee in the afternoon. If I go out after work, then I drink a Celsius. The marshmallow flavor is everything.

LEFT: BLAIR wears MA-1 HERITAGE BOMBER JACKET by ALPHA INDUSTRIES, DRESS by GALLIANO, HEELS by DION LEE, JEWELRY by MARTINE ALI

RIGHT: BLAIR wears MA-1 HERITAGE BOMBER JACKET by ALPHA INDUSTRIES, TOP by SH4ME, SKIRT by DION LEE, RINGS by CHRIS HABANA, NECKLACE by CLAIRE WISEMAN STUDIO, BOOTS are TALENT’S OWN

If you weren't doing what you're doing now, what would your career be?

I would either be a firefighter or a pornstar.

Who is your go to person when you need a pep talk?

When I need a pep talk for anything life-related, if I’m struggling, I only will talk to my mom about it. I hate projecting and talking about that kind of thing with friends. I just think… get a therapist. So only my mom.

But if I need a pep talk for something work-related, I've been really blessed with great mentors like Rachel Chandler, Greg Krelenstein, and Kembra Pfahler, who always know exactly what to say.

How do you know when you see someone with potential?

I know I see someone with potential when I’ve actually gotten that chance to connect with them, understand them, and learn more about them.

In our industry nowadays, a star is a lot more than just their appearance. We're starting to really value people as more than a model, more than a face. We're getting into their background, their story, what else they have to offer, so I think it takes more than just looking at them.

It's rare to have that girl who is just at the top for being a model. It still happens — we have Anok and Vittoria, who've really made it that way. But I like when I really get to dive into someone, ask them about themselves, figure out what’s special about them. Connecting with other humans is important in our industry, and some people forget to do that.

I like when I really get to dive into someone, ask them about themselves, figure out what’s special about them. Connecting with other humans is important in our industry, and some people forget to do that.

How did you start casting? What was the path that led you there?

I started when I was 19, by interning for Ricky Michaels. I think I had gotten scouted by him, and then he had said, ‘I need an intern.’

I was like, cool, I'm gonna try this, and it just went from there. I started working with casting directors in New York and Paris, wherever I could get a gig, and make money, and I slowly started building my own clients.

What about the process do you find fulfilling?

I'm just a people-person, so getting to click with other people is fulfilling. I always hate when I see people in the industry treat people [as if they’re] super disposable, or forget about the human aspect, because, I'm like, why are you in this industry if you don't care about the human aspect?

When you get to do those really special projects, where it really is about storytelling and less just about filling a quota or a role or something like that, that's when it excites me, and it's worth it to me. Or when you get to put someone on, and have them share their voice, who normally wouldn't [have that platform], that's always still really super exciting to me.

You mentioned getting scouted. Do you model yourself?

I like to model if it's for Hedi Slimane or Lotta Volkova. Or if the check is really cute, then we can talk.

How does it compare to casting?

Well, the funny thing for me with modeling is that when I was 18 to 21, the ages where I would have been prime, that's when no one wanted me to model. Like, I was not cute back then.

I never could have been a traditional model. I was not female sample size, and couldn't have been with an agency. It wasn't really until I developed myself as a human and once I created a band, and started getting my career going, that I think people started booking me as Blair and not really as a model.

I think that made me value putting work into who I am instead of my appearance. I've never really cared about affirmation for my appearance, but way more about what I can bring out there.

I like to model if it's for Hedi Slimane or Lotta Volkova. Or if the check is really cute, then we can talk.

When did you start making music?

I had just made music for fun after I graduated college. My best friend was always in bands while we were in school, and I was like, oh, we won't be in school together every day, so let's do a project so we can keep hanging out. And so that's how I started my band with her.

What brought you to New York originally?

College brought me to New York. I grew up in Missouri, and no one from my high school went to college in New York. But I’m grateful to have had a teacher who was like, “you need to not go to school in Kansas City. You need to branch out and try somewhere else.”

I didn't even know what Parsons was, but I applied to every art and design school, and they gave me the best scholarship. And it got me here. It just seemed like a way better quality of life for myself, so I stuck it out here.

How would you like to be remembered?

I would like to be remembered for making positive impacts on other people's lives. I think I don't really care as much about success or getting to a certain point in my career, because I have seen a lot of the people who are at the top, especially in fashion, usually have to sacrifice certain things and morals that I'm not willing to. So as long as I make a positive impact on people interpersonally in my life, that's enough for me. I'm happy with that.

What does New York mean to you?

New York is really energetically exciting. You can always walk down the street and see life. I've been here seven years, and people are like, “it's not like it used to be!” But no matter what, I still find new and exciting people and stories and connections with other humans, that is unlike anywhere else I've been in the world. It's always going to be special to me.

Fashion

Behind the Scenes at RAISEfashion

The organization is led by Executive Director Felitia Harris. Designers I spoke with described her as someone they aspire to be. Harris is a beloved connector, driven by her mission to provide black designers with the support and resources that have diminished in recent years. Her strategy centers on fostering inclusivity from within. Since the project’s founding in 2020, following the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement, RAISE has tapped into fashion’s existing community, using it as a platform to increase racial equity in the industry through collaboration.

Each year, the organization provides select designers with a seasonal grant, which comes with pro bono consulting to help emerging labels refine their strategic marketing efforts. This year’s spring preview featured brands ranging from Keith Herron’s Cali-based Advisry to Kingsley Gbadegesin’s justice-focused K.NGSLEY. Their garments were showcased alongside a new 90s luxury line by Abercrombie & Fitch, a sponsor of the event. Abercrombie collaborated with Janae Harmon and TyAnn Amos to bring this collection and event to life.

Take a look at some of the Masterclass 2024 designers below.

Aisling Camps

After graduating from Columbia University and New York's Fashion Institute of Technology, designer Aisling Camps immersed herself in the creation of handcrafted knits. Whether or not she is doing a "sustainability lean", her material-conscious label focuses on developing high-quality textiles. Recently, she collaborated with Moda Operandi, traveling to actress Isabella Rossellini’s Long Island farm to create a collection using wool from Rossellini’s heritage sheep — each unique in its characteristics, which Camps likens to “heirloom tomatoes.”

This season, her brand emphasizes textures and fabrication, featuring materials such as boiled wool sourced from Italy and brushed mohair. Novelty yarns serve as the foundation for the collection, heavily inspired by the tree roots and waterfalls of Trinidad, Camps' hometown. Referring to her design process, she explains, “Every garment is perfectly undone, with the scraps of one piece becoming the basis for the next.” The organic lines of her designs, which accentuate the female form, reflect her zero-waste philosophy, using fabric in a way that avoids excess.

Burkindy

Burkina Faso-born artist and designer Burkindy blends cultural symbols with natural elements to honor the heritage that informs his work. In his latest collection, he incorporates fluid, organic forms into bracelets and necklaces designed to drape across the body. His animal-shaped rings, crafted in gold and silver, reflect a deep appreciation for classic designs, yet each piece bears his distinctive touch.

Handcrafting all jewelry molds in Brooklyn, Burkindy has a dedicated storefront in Crown Heights where admirers of the brand can explore the collection. In addition to his jewelry, Burkindy’s creative practice spans Ready-to-Wear and visual art, integral to his artistic process. A pivotal moment for his brand came when he connected with Felitia Harris through a mutual friend, leading to his involvement with RAISE — a transformative experience for his career.

Kingsley Gbadegesin

There’s no deeper meaning behind Kingsley Gbadegesin’s newest collection — the Nigerian-American designer’s work is rooted in the idea that form follows function. For him, it’s about creating a feeling and making something personal for each wearer. Putting a sexy spin on prep-styled pieces, from cropped polos to sheer silhouettes, Gbadegesin designs with fabrics and fits that excite him, fueling his body-centric work.

With a background in sales and merchandising, Gbadegesin shares his vulnerabilities through his creations.“ If you follow the label,” he says, “you’re judging me, you’re feeling me, you’re dressing in me, sans it [the label] being named K.NGSLEY.” Bridging the gap in equity for queer and Black communities is central to his brand’s ethos. During the pandemic, a friend encouraged him to join RAISE, where he met Aisling Camps, his “business wife.” Their collaboration has accelerated the pace and process that shape his garments.

Keith Herron

Keith Herron launched his label, Advisry, in California at just 13, and he has consistently found innovative ways to deliver cult-favorite pieces to his audience. Expanding beyond garments, Herron has explored multimedia projects, including film and music, which further define his brand’s identity.

At this year’s RAISEfashion showcase, Herron joined a BOF panel to discuss building his fanbase, upcoming partnerships with retailers in Korea, and strategies for brands to incorporate wholesale to expand their reach. Leveraging his connections from the program to boost his direct-to-consumer market, Herron continues to create standout pieces, such as graphic tees and wide-leg trousers, paying homage to his inspirations, Pharrell and Virgil Abloh.

Fashion

MOWALOLA SS25

Known for her fearless approach to design, Mowalola’s show promised not just a visual spectacle but a profound cultural statement — a culmination of her passions: fashion, music, and her mission to reshape narratives around the Black experience. This season, she pushed boundaries even further, crafting a collection that redefined what fashion can communicate. The show was set against a pulsating soundtrack, featuring live performances that paid homage to hip-hop and punk while embracing the edgy sounds of the underground scene. Models strutted down the runway to this powerful rhythm, draped in pieces that were as raw as they were bold.

True to form, Mowalola’s collection was a riot of color and texture. PVC and leather, staples in her previous works, returned in futuristic silhouettes that fused streetwear sensibilities with avant-garde shapes. But it wasn’t just about the clothes; each look told a story — a bold reclamation of Black narratives, individuality, and freedom of expression.

One standout moment featured pieces emblazoned with the word “Ebony,” drawing attention to the fetishization of Black individuals worldwide. These designs were more than just fashion statements; they kicked up conversations about race, identity, and belonging, inviting the audience to reflect on their relationship with themes on display.

As her seventh Fashion Week presentation came to a close with supermodel Irina Shayk, it was clear that Mowalola had once again succeeded in doing what she does best: challenging the status quo. With every collection, she continues to break new ground, reminding us that fashion is not just about aesthetics — it’s about identity, culture, and the power of storytelling.

Fashion

Diego Nájera Walks Willy Chavarria SS25

How did you first meet Willy?

In Paris, in June, during fashion week this year. It was at a private Adidas event actually. I should have known then that something big was in the works. I love his work and we have mutual friends, so I just went up and introduced myself. He was exactly how he is: himself and real. Very humble, respectful and helpful.

How did you go from meeting him in Paris in June to walking in his show in September?

Willy invited me to his studio when we first met in Paris. Pretty soon after, I came to New York to film (a skate video) for my friend Ben’s brand, Grand and he’s good friends with Willy. So we both went to Willy’s studio together. We brought Willy his favorite cookies and a Grand jacket as gifts for him. He was so hyped. We were supposed to be there like 20 minutes but ended up all talking for two hours. As the two hours passed, before we got ready to leave, Willy told me he’d really like for me to walk his show. It was a dream come true. I hit up adidas and they helped me come back for the show and made sure I was here days early for fittings and anything else needed.

What was the experience like to walk in your first show? Were you nervous?

It was truly an honored moment for me. Not only loving what Willy creates, but also the meaning behind this collection and show. So grateful to be a part of such a meaningful moment. The show started at 7pm, but models had to arrive at 1:30pm for make-up and doing photos. It was sick to see how the whole process works and meet so many cool people backstage. When it came time to walk, I wasn’t nervous at all, all my nerves were full of joy and ready to walk. There was direction on stance and walk and what they wanted us to do. Other than that, I was looking straight ahead, locked in. No eye contact.

What did you think about your look?

I loved it. It’s everything I would personally buy and wear. White hoodie with Willy Chavarria written in old English arched across the chest, 3 stripes detail hit on the hood. White track jacket with royal blue accents. White track bottoms that zip off into long shorts with unique patterns. It’s the baggy silhouettes of the pieces that makes them fit so comfortable and unique. You have to wear and touch the pieces to see how special they really are. The whole collection is special.

You never see a Mexican designer get to the level Willy has. And no matter how big he gets, he still celebrates us and all of humanity. It’s amazing to see him get so much love and support. He deserves it all.

What does it mean to you to be in Willy’s show? Also with the adidas tie in?

Huge, huge honor to be a part of it. I’m Mexican. Willy is Mexican. You never see a Mexican designer get to the level Willy has. And no matter how big he gets, he still celebrates us and all of humanity. It’s amazing to see him get so much love and support. He deserves it all. He’s worked so hard for so long. It’s such a blessing to walk in his show period. Then add in adidas, who has supported me for so many years. It’s just blessings on blessings. So grateful.

What else did you do while in New York during Fashion Week?

Skated, filmed, hung out with friends, explored, ate good food. All the good things you do when you’re in New York. Just be outside.

What’s next after this trip?

Keep the momentum going. Headed on a domestic adidas trip right from New York, then Shanghai with adidas, then Tokyo with Grand in October. Skate more, drop more videos, go on more trips, make more designs. Stay locked in on the things I envision and accomplish them.

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